Most people are aware of the typical benefits of grooming their dog such as removing knots and tangles in the coat, allowing air to flow through the fur much easier making the dog cooler, and giving the dog's coat a nice healthy shine. But there are many lesser known benefits to a regular grooming regime for your pet.
It may come as a surprise for some dog owners to know that the simple act of grooming can do much more for their pet than just improving the look of the coat. By making grooming a regular activity with your dog you'll be pleasantly surprised by the numerous health benefits that can be achieved.
Some of the many health benefits of grooming include:
1) Removes dead hair which improves the overall look of the coat as only new healthy hair is left behind. Better air circulation through the fur leaves your dog cooler and more comfortable in hot weather. Matted and tangled hair is also a common problem especially among active dogs which can be greatly improved by regular grooming.
2) Ability to notice any potential health problems by becoming familiar with your dog's body. Tender areas for instance could indicate an injury of some sort which may require further investigation. It is also important to look for health dangers such as ticks which if left undetected can be deadly to your pet.
3) Improves the emotional state of your pet because of the bonding achieved whilst grooming. A gentle hand and a pleasant voice while grooming a long way will establish a bond with your dog and helps build trust between you and your dog.
4) The act of grooming improves blood flow to the follicles of each hair improving the health of the entire coat. The lymphatic system is also stimulated by grooming giving similar health benefits to those given by a massage for humans.
5) It is also a good idea to pay attention to your dog's paws while grooming by clipping long nails and checking the pads of the feet for any sore areas that may need attention.
You can find all the tools you need for effective grooming at local pet supply stores or by searching the internet where you'll also find lots of tips and advice. Most areas also have classes through community colleges where you can learn the correct methods of grooming your pet. Also check out dog clubs and groups where you will find other dog owners to give you some tips and advice on where to start.
If you find that you enjoy grooming and become proficient enough you may wish to start a dog grooming service in your local area. Dog grooming is in big demand and can be a profitable part-time/full-time business.
By putting in a little time and effort along with a few dollars for some basic grooming tools you will be greatly rewarded with a healthier, happier dog. Even if you're just starting to learn about correct grooming techniques your dog will still benefit greatly from the little time and effort involved in grooming.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
How to Care for Your Dog’s Teeth
Just like humans, dogs can get cavities if their teeth are not properly taken care of. Cavities are not as common in dogs as they are in humans; however there are some things that can increase the likelihood of your dog developing tooth problems. If you live in an area with hard water, it is more likely that your dog's teeth will develop tartar deposits. Additionally, tooth problems are more likely if your dog eats mostly soft foods, because these leave debris in gum pockets at the base of the teeth, leading to infections. These not only cause problems for your dog's teeth - studies show that a whopping 98% of cases of bad breath in dogs are caused by periodontal disease, which is the result of tartar build-up and gum infections.
The best way of preventing these problems is with regular brushing of your dog's teeth. Even if you have a great relationship with your dog, staring into its mouth and seeing rows of shining, sharp dogteeth can be intimidating. But by gradually getting your dog used to the idea of having you handling his mouth, you'll be able to clean his teeth and take care of his mouth without too many problems.
If you have a young dog, it is much easier to get started. Even if your dog is a few years old you can still get him used to the idea, but you may find that it takes a bit longer before your dog is willing to let you brush his teeth. To get your dog used to having his mouth handled, start by lifting his lips and looking at his teeth - do this two or three times a week, and each time, give him a small treat after you have finished. This will help both you and your dog relax when you are handling his mouth, and your dog will be more comfortable with the process when he knows there will be a treat when it's over.
Once your dog is used to having his mouth handled, it's time to start brushing. There are a few simple items you will need to brush your dog's teeth, which you can obtain from a pet store or from your veterinarian. You'll need a dog tooth brush (a wash cloth or gauze pad wrapped around your finger also works well), and tooth paste which has been formulated for animal use. Human toothpaste should not be used for brushing dogteeth, because dogs cannot spit, and human toothpaste is not safe to swallow in large quantities. Your dog will most likely swallow whatever you use to clean his teeth, so it is important to buy toothpaste that has been formulated specifically for dogs. In addition, dogtooth pastes come in several different flavors, so if you can find a flavor your dog likes, it will be that much easier to brush his teeth.
Once you have the right tools, brushing dog teeth is pretty similar to brushing your own. If you have a large dog, the easiest position is on the floor, with your dog in front of you. With smaller breeds or puppies, you can hold the dog in your lap. To start brushing, lift your dog's upper lip and brush the teeth in a circular motion, making sure to brush at the base of each tooth where it meets the gum line. Also make sure to brush the back molars, because these teeth are more likely than the front teeth to develop problems. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, do only one or two teeth the first few times. As he becomes more comfortable with brushing, you can brush more teeth in each session. Always give your dog a small treat after each session.
Brushing should be done twice a week. If your dog's teeth have a lot of tartar build-up they'll need to be cleaned by your vet - this is a fairly quick procedure but it does require anesthesia. In addition to regular brushing, feeding your dog dry dog food or hard biscuits every day is the best way of preventing tartar build-up. Soft foods and meat should be given as treat foods only. As well as this, provide your dog with bones or hard toys to chew on - this will help keep their teeth and gums in good condition and it will also reduce the risk of your dog chewing on furniture or destroying your property. If you give your dog bones, do not cook them. Cooked bones can splinter, and these splinters can cause your dog to choke, or if swallowed they can perforate the bowel. Choose a bone based on the size of your dog - make sure you get a large bone if your dog is a large breed, so that there is no possibility of swallowing it.
With a little care and attention, you can help keep your dog's teeth in tip-top condition for years to come.
The best way of preventing these problems is with regular brushing of your dog's teeth. Even if you have a great relationship with your dog, staring into its mouth and seeing rows of shining, sharp dogteeth can be intimidating. But by gradually getting your dog used to the idea of having you handling his mouth, you'll be able to clean his teeth and take care of his mouth without too many problems.
If you have a young dog, it is much easier to get started. Even if your dog is a few years old you can still get him used to the idea, but you may find that it takes a bit longer before your dog is willing to let you brush his teeth. To get your dog used to having his mouth handled, start by lifting his lips and looking at his teeth - do this two or three times a week, and each time, give him a small treat after you have finished. This will help both you and your dog relax when you are handling his mouth, and your dog will be more comfortable with the process when he knows there will be a treat when it's over.
Once your dog is used to having his mouth handled, it's time to start brushing. There are a few simple items you will need to brush your dog's teeth, which you can obtain from a pet store or from your veterinarian. You'll need a dog tooth brush (a wash cloth or gauze pad wrapped around your finger also works well), and tooth paste which has been formulated for animal use. Human toothpaste should not be used for brushing dogteeth, because dogs cannot spit, and human toothpaste is not safe to swallow in large quantities. Your dog will most likely swallow whatever you use to clean his teeth, so it is important to buy toothpaste that has been formulated specifically for dogs. In addition, dogtooth pastes come in several different flavors, so if you can find a flavor your dog likes, it will be that much easier to brush his teeth.
Once you have the right tools, brushing dog teeth is pretty similar to brushing your own. If you have a large dog, the easiest position is on the floor, with your dog in front of you. With smaller breeds or puppies, you can hold the dog in your lap. To start brushing, lift your dog's upper lip and brush the teeth in a circular motion, making sure to brush at the base of each tooth where it meets the gum line. Also make sure to brush the back molars, because these teeth are more likely than the front teeth to develop problems. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, do only one or two teeth the first few times. As he becomes more comfortable with brushing, you can brush more teeth in each session. Always give your dog a small treat after each session.
Brushing should be done twice a week. If your dog's teeth have a lot of tartar build-up they'll need to be cleaned by your vet - this is a fairly quick procedure but it does require anesthesia. In addition to regular brushing, feeding your dog dry dog food or hard biscuits every day is the best way of preventing tartar build-up. Soft foods and meat should be given as treat foods only. As well as this, provide your dog with bones or hard toys to chew on - this will help keep their teeth and gums in good condition and it will also reduce the risk of your dog chewing on furniture or destroying your property. If you give your dog bones, do not cook them. Cooked bones can splinter, and these splinters can cause your dog to choke, or if swallowed they can perforate the bowel. Choose a bone based on the size of your dog - make sure you get a large bone if your dog is a large breed, so that there is no possibility of swallowing it.
With a little care and attention, you can help keep your dog's teeth in tip-top condition for years to come.
Friday, March 23, 2007
Siamese Cat
A Siamese Cat Makes a Purr-fect Pet
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple-head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedge-head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple-head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedge-head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
Monday, March 12, 2007
A Siamese Cat Makes a Purr-fect Pet
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats were transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Applehead type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedgehead Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Applehead type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedgehead Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
Thursday, March 8, 2007
A Method of Bathing Your Dog
Some dogs like the Poodle can have a lot of their thick coat clipped before a bath. However, clipping dirty hair puts more wear on clipper blades. You will need to use lubricating spray and oil on clipper blades to keep them in top condition. If you clip the thick hair of some dog breeds before bathing you will cut down washing and drying time by about half. You will use less electricity, less time and less stress for the dog.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
Monday, February 26, 2007
Tips for buy your first puppy
5 Things You Need to Know Before You Buy Your First Puppy
Your kids want a puppy. All your neighbors have dogs. It’s the great American Dream (for children, anyway) to have a dog like Lassie. However, if this is your first puppy, there are some things you need to know before you commit to buying a dog.
#1 - Dogs Take Time. Puppies Take More Time.
Having a puppy is like having a 2-year-old. Until they are trained (see #2), they require pretty much constant supervision. After they are trained, they still require supervision until they are older. If you can't entertain them all day, you may want to consider two dogs, or a cat. Or puppy day care!
#2 - Puppies Need Training. And so do your children.
When I was growing up, we had a dog - for a while. It didn't work out because my parents didn't realize that puppies need training. We were a cat family - and you can pretty much ignore cats. Not so with dogs.
You will need several puppy classes and possibly more classes when your puppy is grown. Dogs are not independent, and you need to teach them proper behavior.
If you have children, they need to take the classes with their puppies so they can learn how to interact with your new pet.
#3: Puppies Cost Money.
Ok - this isn't unreasonable, but you need to be prepared to add your puppy into your budget. You will have many expenses, especially when you first get your new puppy. They need toys, bones, shots, registrations with the state, and don't forget the food, doghouses, collars, clothes (no really - it’s a big business - you'll be tempted!) vet bills, and training (see #2).
Dogs are one of the most expensive pets around. Most puppies are part of the family - and will cost you like part of the family. Don't go into this venture thinking they're cheap.
#4 - Puppies Grow Into Dogs.
I know that's obvious - but you need to be sure you know how big your dog will be. If you have young children, your puppy may outweigh them within a year. Do the research so you know how big your cute little puppy will be when he's a dog.
If your pet is a mixed breed dog, look at the paws. Usually, a puppy will grow into their paws.
#5 - Dogs Need Exercise.
And people need exercise - so this can actually be an advantage if handled properly. Puppies need room to run and play. They need people to play with, and they need toys to play with. If you lead a very sedentary lifestyle, be sure you pick a dog breed that is low activity.
The larger the dog, the more room and exercise they need. You will probably need to walk your dog several times a week. Be sure and plan that into your schedule now - or you may find your puppy running around the house all day without you.
Owning a dog can be a very rewarding experience - even if this is your first puppy. Your dog will become one of the family and be a faithful companion for life. Be prepared for your new puppy, and it will be a great adventure for both of you.
Your kids want a puppy. All your neighbors have dogs. It’s the great American Dream (for children, anyway) to have a dog like Lassie. However, if this is your first puppy, there are some things you need to know before you commit to buying a dog.
#1 - Dogs Take Time. Puppies Take More Time.
Having a puppy is like having a 2-year-old. Until they are trained (see #2), they require pretty much constant supervision. After they are trained, they still require supervision until they are older. If you can't entertain them all day, you may want to consider two dogs, or a cat. Or puppy day care!
#2 - Puppies Need Training. And so do your children.
When I was growing up, we had a dog - for a while. It didn't work out because my parents didn't realize that puppies need training. We were a cat family - and you can pretty much ignore cats. Not so with dogs.
You will need several puppy classes and possibly more classes when your puppy is grown. Dogs are not independent, and you need to teach them proper behavior.
If you have children, they need to take the classes with their puppies so they can learn how to interact with your new pet.
#3: Puppies Cost Money.
Ok - this isn't unreasonable, but you need to be prepared to add your puppy into your budget. You will have many expenses, especially when you first get your new puppy. They need toys, bones, shots, registrations with the state, and don't forget the food, doghouses, collars, clothes (no really - it’s a big business - you'll be tempted!) vet bills, and training (see #2).
Dogs are one of the most expensive pets around. Most puppies are part of the family - and will cost you like part of the family. Don't go into this venture thinking they're cheap.
#4 - Puppies Grow Into Dogs.
I know that's obvious - but you need to be sure you know how big your dog will be. If you have young children, your puppy may outweigh them within a year. Do the research so you know how big your cute little puppy will be when he's a dog.
If your pet is a mixed breed dog, look at the paws. Usually, a puppy will grow into their paws.
#5 - Dogs Need Exercise.
And people need exercise - so this can actually be an advantage if handled properly. Puppies need room to run and play. They need people to play with, and they need toys to play with. If you lead a very sedentary lifestyle, be sure you pick a dog breed that is low activity.
The larger the dog, the more room and exercise they need. You will probably need to walk your dog several times a week. Be sure and plan that into your schedule now - or you may find your puppy running around the house all day without you.
Owning a dog can be a very rewarding experience - even if this is your first puppy. Your dog will become one of the family and be a faithful companion for life. Be prepared for your new puppy, and it will be a great adventure for both of you.
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
Perfect Dog Sitter
10 Steps to Finding the Perfect Dog Sitter
The flights are reserved, the bags packed and the kids are finally ready! But just as you’re rushing out the door, you run into Fido with those big, sad puppy eyes. Oh NO, what about Fido?
When planning vacation and holiday getaways, our pets are often a forgotten, last-minute detail.
Next time, consider using a pet sitter. It allows your dog to stay in the comfort of their home and maintain their normal routine. These are things even well-meaning friends or family, and certainly kennels, cannot offer. Also, having a trusted pet sitter in your home can help protect your home from intruders.
But how do you find the perfect pet sitter? Start looking before your next trip and follow these 10 recommendations:
1. Personal Referrals. Ask trusted friends or family members if they can recommend a pet sitter they have used. Word-of-mouth is often the best reference.
2. The Interview. Set up a meeting in your home with each potential pet sitter. Watch how the sitter relates or interacts with your dog. Are they actively involved with the dog or are they distant or restrained around them? Does your dog want the pet sitter’s attention? Don’t second-guess your dog’s reaction (or your own); if they don’t seem engaged, move on.
3. Questions, Questions. The kind and volume of questions pet sitters ask will showcase their actual experience in caring for your particular breed of dog. A professional sitter will take notes; you should too. If they don’t ask questions, cross them off your list!
4. Affiliations. Judging solely by an organization affiliation (such as PSI – Pet Sitters International or NAPPS - National Association of Professional Pet Sitters) is tempting. However, remember these national organizations do not know these individuals or their reputation. Instead, ask for local affiliations and follow-up.
5. Client References. Ask for other client references. These will help you get a clearer idea of what to expect if you hire this person.
6. Bonding & Insurance. Bonding and insurance protects you in the case of damage or theft of your property. However, is does NOT ensure that the pet sitter is reliable, caring or trustworthy.
7. The Dotted Line. Ask for a copy of their contract and carefully review the details later. A contract will protect you and your dog. It will also spell out exactly what you can and cannot expect from the pet sitter. It should also list the appropriate rates for all services offered. Do not hesitate to ask questions!
8. Arrange another visit. Arrange for the pet sitter to spend some alone time with your dog. A walk is a great idea. Monitor your dog’s reaction; is he happy and comfortable with the pet sitter? Or does he seem eager to get away from them? This also gives the pet sitter a chance to see if they can appropriately handle your dog (particularly if the dog is a large-breed, strong or very energetic).
9. Listen to your gut! Finally, go with your gut feeling! If it doesn’t “feel” right, it’s not! Keep looking.
10. Before you leave. Leave detailed instructions (prepared earlier), phone number(s) in the event of an emergency, and your vet’s name and number.
Investing your time in advance and following these steps will ensure the best possible pet sitting experience. So the next time you’re making those early travel plans, remember to put Fido, and his pet sitter, on your checklist to avoid those big, sad puppy eyes!
The flights are reserved, the bags packed and the kids are finally ready! But just as you’re rushing out the door, you run into Fido with those big, sad puppy eyes. Oh NO, what about Fido?
When planning vacation and holiday getaways, our pets are often a forgotten, last-minute detail.
Next time, consider using a pet sitter. It allows your dog to stay in the comfort of their home and maintain their normal routine. These are things even well-meaning friends or family, and certainly kennels, cannot offer. Also, having a trusted pet sitter in your home can help protect your home from intruders.
But how do you find the perfect pet sitter? Start looking before your next trip and follow these 10 recommendations:
1. Personal Referrals. Ask trusted friends or family members if they can recommend a pet sitter they have used. Word-of-mouth is often the best reference.
2. The Interview. Set up a meeting in your home with each potential pet sitter. Watch how the sitter relates or interacts with your dog. Are they actively involved with the dog or are they distant or restrained around them? Does your dog want the pet sitter’s attention? Don’t second-guess your dog’s reaction (or your own); if they don’t seem engaged, move on.
3. Questions, Questions. The kind and volume of questions pet sitters ask will showcase their actual experience in caring for your particular breed of dog. A professional sitter will take notes; you should too. If they don’t ask questions, cross them off your list!
4. Affiliations. Judging solely by an organization affiliation (such as PSI – Pet Sitters International or NAPPS - National Association of Professional Pet Sitters) is tempting. However, remember these national organizations do not know these individuals or their reputation. Instead, ask for local affiliations and follow-up.
5. Client References. Ask for other client references. These will help you get a clearer idea of what to expect if you hire this person.
6. Bonding & Insurance. Bonding and insurance protects you in the case of damage or theft of your property. However, is does NOT ensure that the pet sitter is reliable, caring or trustworthy.
7. The Dotted Line. Ask for a copy of their contract and carefully review the details later. A contract will protect you and your dog. It will also spell out exactly what you can and cannot expect from the pet sitter. It should also list the appropriate rates for all services offered. Do not hesitate to ask questions!
8. Arrange another visit. Arrange for the pet sitter to spend some alone time with your dog. A walk is a great idea. Monitor your dog’s reaction; is he happy and comfortable with the pet sitter? Or does he seem eager to get away from them? This also gives the pet sitter a chance to see if they can appropriately handle your dog (particularly if the dog is a large-breed, strong or very energetic).
9. Listen to your gut! Finally, go with your gut feeling! If it doesn’t “feel” right, it’s not! Keep looking.
10. Before you leave. Leave detailed instructions (prepared earlier), phone number(s) in the event of an emergency, and your vet’s name and number.
Investing your time in advance and following these steps will ensure the best possible pet sitting experience. So the next time you’re making those early travel plans, remember to put Fido, and his pet sitter, on your checklist to avoid those big, sad puppy eyes!
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