Keeping Dogs Healthy during the summer
Dogs are wonderful additions to a family and are often treated as well as human family members. They become your best friend, companion, or even your furry child. Learning how to care for these beloved pets, especially during the summer's heat, is imperative to their good health and to lowering your veterinary bills.
Keep your dogs hydrated. Dogs can easily become dehydrated during the warm weather and it will happen more quickly depending on the thickness of their fur. Keep the water bowl in a visible place, such as the kitchen, so every family member will remember to check its fullness during the course of the day. If you are out walking, pack a cold water bottle just for your dog and stop often to encourage your dog to drink.
Limit exercise. Every vet will encourage dog owners to take dogs for a walk to encourage good health, strengthen their bones, and help keep their nails trimmed, but use common sense during the summer. Shorten the length of your walk or break up a long walk into two shorter sessions.
Be aware of the outside temperature and humidity. Do not forget that your beloved Fido is walking with a fur coat and will overheat easily. Walking in the early morning or late evening hours, when the sun is low in the sky, will often help keep dogs cooler.
Walk close to your house so if you sense your dog is having problems you can turn around or call for help. Hiking paths and paved trails are wonderful resources but you will be stuck if your dog collapses in the middle of a trail that doesn't allow cars.
Take your dog's age and overall health into consideration when planning activities outdoors. Older dogs will tire and dehydrate more easily than younger dogs and these changes can appear without warning. Dogs can also develop seasonal allergies which can in turn affect their breathing ability, so keep a close watch on older dogs that seem to pant excessively.
Check for ticks daily. Ticks are very small insects that often carry Lyme's Disease and other tick borne illnesses. These microscopic insects are prevalent during the warm weather months in wooded areas or yards with tall grass and if they come in contact with your pet, they will bite the animal and make their way into your home. Obviously, ticks are more difficult to find on dogs with thick fur so really dig your fingers in to feel them and remove them carefully with tweezers.
Do not leave any dogs in a locked car. Even with open windows, cars can heat to well over 100 degrees very quickly, which can cause severe trouble for any pet.
Using your common sense with your dog during the summer will eliminate emergency visits to the vet and will eliminate any stress your dog may feel, making for a much happier family life.
Showing posts with label pet treat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pet treat. Show all posts
Friday, April 20, 2012
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Clicker Dog Training
The newest dog training craze is clicker dog training. A clicker is a small rectangular plastic box with a metal button on top that clicks, hence the name clicker. It is the type of training the dog decides whether or not it suits him. There are many success stories with clicker, but with my dog he just did not want to know! Researchers in dog studies believe that the clicker promotes enforced training, without punishment! As we all know when we do something good and get rewarded for it we are going to do the same again, a dog thinks the same way. Dogs learn through consequences, if they do something and it earns them a treat and praise they are going to want to do it again because they like this consequence. If they do something that you do not like and they get ignored or said no to in a strict voice they know that they aren’t going to get any treats so are not going to do it again.
Clicker dog training works in such a way it reinforces good behaviour. If your dog sits, click and give him a treat. The next time he sits do the same but do not say anything to him. He will soon realize that when he sits he will get a treat and hear a click, so when you eventually come to click before he sits he knows to sit. Its not all that confusing when you think about it.
Punishment is not used in clicker dog training as researchers believe that although punishment does stop some bad behavior may be any other unwanted behavior. Punishment is almost always carried out after the dog has done something wrong, so dogs see punishment as any punishment resulting thus not really solving anything.
Clicker dog training is not only used or dogs! It is generally used for other animals such as dolphins and horses. It is a method widely practiced training and lead to results, if performed.
Read also :
- Dog Supplies Buying Guide
- Dog Training Book
Friday, April 13, 2007
Taking Your Cat for a Walk
There's nothing strange about taking a dog for a walk, but taking a cat, well that's a whole new ballgame. Though taking a cat for a walk is not as difficult as it may seem. With a little patience and a very secure cat harness, it is possible.
Many people believe that cats should be kept indoor at all times, so our precious wildlife is protected. Cats can be notorious killers of small animals, and keeping them indoors is a great way to keep them under control. But do we know if cats are capable of missing the outdoors? Are we depriving them of some inbuilt instinct to hunt and capture their prey?
An easy way to overcome this is to let our cats outdoors, but only if they are fully under control. There are a few steps to take that will eventually allow you to take your cat outdoors, in a safe and secure manner.
Start by purchasing a cat harness and lead. These are available from your local veterinary surgery or pet supply store. If they don't have any in stock you can also use a very small dog harness, the size that is appropriate for a Chihuahua.
Introduce the harness to the cat slowly, leaving it nears its bed and food bowls on a regular basis, over a period of days. Attempt to put the harness on the cat when it no longer appears interested in it. Continue putting the harness on for a two week period, until the cat accepts the harness as part of the daily routine.
The final step is to lead the cat outside, in small bursts only, for just a few seconds at a time. Each day, increase the amount of time spent outside. After a week or two of this, your cat should be very comfortable with the harness and with being outside.
If you have reached this step, congratulations. You can now start to slowly walk your cat for short distances. Soon enough your cat will be sitting at the front door waiting for you to take it for a walk.
Walking your cat is a great way to relieve their boredom and give them some exercise at the same time. It can stimulate their senses, exercise their body and hopefully save some of your household furniture from scratches. Give it a go, your cat will thank you for it.
Many people believe that cats should be kept indoor at all times, so our precious wildlife is protected. Cats can be notorious killers of small animals, and keeping them indoors is a great way to keep them under control. But do we know if cats are capable of missing the outdoors? Are we depriving them of some inbuilt instinct to hunt and capture their prey?
An easy way to overcome this is to let our cats outdoors, but only if they are fully under control. There are a few steps to take that will eventually allow you to take your cat outdoors, in a safe and secure manner.
Start by purchasing a cat harness and lead. These are available from your local veterinary surgery or pet supply store. If they don't have any in stock you can also use a very small dog harness, the size that is appropriate for a Chihuahua.
Introduce the harness to the cat slowly, leaving it nears its bed and food bowls on a regular basis, over a period of days. Attempt to put the harness on the cat when it no longer appears interested in it. Continue putting the harness on for a two week period, until the cat accepts the harness as part of the daily routine.
The final step is to lead the cat outside, in small bursts only, for just a few seconds at a time. Each day, increase the amount of time spent outside. After a week or two of this, your cat should be very comfortable with the harness and with being outside.
If you have reached this step, congratulations. You can now start to slowly walk your cat for short distances. Soon enough your cat will be sitting at the front door waiting for you to take it for a walk.
Walking your cat is a great way to relieve their boredom and give them some exercise at the same time. It can stimulate their senses, exercise their body and hopefully save some of your household furniture from scratches. Give it a go, your cat will thank you for it.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
Grooming Your Way to a Healthy Dog
Most people are aware of the typical benefits of grooming their dog such as removing knots and tangles in the coat, allowing air to flow through the fur much easier making the dog cooler, and giving the dog's coat a nice healthy shine. But there are many lesser known benefits to a regular grooming regime for your pet.
It may come as a surprise for some dog owners to know that the simple act of grooming can do much more for their pet than just improving the look of the coat. By making grooming a regular activity with your dog you'll be pleasantly surprised by the numerous health benefits that can be achieved.
Some of the many health benefits of grooming include:
1) Removes dead hair which improves the overall look of the coat as only new healthy hair is left behind. Better air circulation through the fur leaves your dog cooler and more comfortable in hot weather. Matted and tangled hair is also a common problem especially among active dogs which can be greatly improved by regular grooming.
2) Ability to notice any potential health problems by becoming familiar with your dog's body. Tender areas for instance could indicate an injury of some sort which may require further investigation. It is also important to look for health dangers such as ticks which if left undetected can be deadly to your pet.
3) Improves the emotional state of your pet because of the bonding achieved whilst grooming. A gentle hand and a pleasant voice while grooming a long way will establish a bond with your dog and helps build trust between you and your dog.
4) The act of grooming improves blood flow to the follicles of each hair improving the health of the entire coat. The lymphatic system is also stimulated by grooming giving similar health benefits to those given by a massage for humans.
5) It is also a good idea to pay attention to your dog's paws while grooming by clipping long nails and checking the pads of the feet for any sore areas that may need attention.
You can find all the tools you need for effective grooming at local pet supply stores or by searching the internet where you'll also find lots of tips and advice. Most areas also have classes through community colleges where you can learn the correct methods of grooming your pet. Also check out dog clubs and groups where you will find other dog owners to give you some tips and advice on where to start.
If you find that you enjoy grooming and become proficient enough you may wish to start a dog grooming service in your local area. Dog grooming is in big demand and can be a profitable part-time/full-time business.
By putting in a little time and effort along with a few dollars for some basic grooming tools you will be greatly rewarded with a healthier, happier dog. Even if you're just starting to learn about correct grooming techniques your dog will still benefit greatly from the little time and effort involved in grooming.
It may come as a surprise for some dog owners to know that the simple act of grooming can do much more for their pet than just improving the look of the coat. By making grooming a regular activity with your dog you'll be pleasantly surprised by the numerous health benefits that can be achieved.
Some of the many health benefits of grooming include:
1) Removes dead hair which improves the overall look of the coat as only new healthy hair is left behind. Better air circulation through the fur leaves your dog cooler and more comfortable in hot weather. Matted and tangled hair is also a common problem especially among active dogs which can be greatly improved by regular grooming.
2) Ability to notice any potential health problems by becoming familiar with your dog's body. Tender areas for instance could indicate an injury of some sort which may require further investigation. It is also important to look for health dangers such as ticks which if left undetected can be deadly to your pet.
3) Improves the emotional state of your pet because of the bonding achieved whilst grooming. A gentle hand and a pleasant voice while grooming a long way will establish a bond with your dog and helps build trust between you and your dog.
4) The act of grooming improves blood flow to the follicles of each hair improving the health of the entire coat. The lymphatic system is also stimulated by grooming giving similar health benefits to those given by a massage for humans.
5) It is also a good idea to pay attention to your dog's paws while grooming by clipping long nails and checking the pads of the feet for any sore areas that may need attention.
You can find all the tools you need for effective grooming at local pet supply stores or by searching the internet where you'll also find lots of tips and advice. Most areas also have classes through community colleges where you can learn the correct methods of grooming your pet. Also check out dog clubs and groups where you will find other dog owners to give you some tips and advice on where to start.
If you find that you enjoy grooming and become proficient enough you may wish to start a dog grooming service in your local area. Dog grooming is in big demand and can be a profitable part-time/full-time business.
By putting in a little time and effort along with a few dollars for some basic grooming tools you will be greatly rewarded with a healthier, happier dog. Even if you're just starting to learn about correct grooming techniques your dog will still benefit greatly from the little time and effort involved in grooming.
Thursday, March 8, 2007
A Method of Bathing Your Dog
Some dogs like the Poodle can have a lot of their thick coat clipped before a bath. However, clipping dirty hair puts more wear on clipper blades. You will need to use lubricating spray and oil on clipper blades to keep them in top condition. If you clip the thick hair of some dog breeds before bathing you will cut down washing and drying time by about half. You will use less electricity, less time and less stress for the dog.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
About Dog's Eyes
Through the "Eyes" of Your Dog!
Unless you were born blind you already know how valuable your eyes and vision are in coping with life. Helping us to process information on the world around us, our eyes constantly work to help us enjoy life and avoid danger.
Dogs also use their eyes in similar ways but with a few minor important differences. We see far and near fine detail in a wide range of colors and shades. Dogs however, even sight hounds which have good vision, have a poorer color range and they are much better at detecting movement rather than detail. This gives them an advantage with night vision but they are poorer at seeing fine or close detail. The main advantage dogs have is that they don't have to rely purely on vision for information on their world. An acute sense of smell and excellent hearing, along with good motion sensing vision, mean that dogs sense much more of their surrounds than mere humans. This extended sensory ability made them ideal companions to early man when danger lurked around every corner.
Dog’s eyes even look remarkably similar to human eyes. Like us, dogs have a range of eye colors although their predominant color is brown. One important difference between us is that dogs have a third eyelid called a nictitating membrane. Although this membrane is not easily seen, certain diseases and eye irritation can make it stand out. The third eyelid sits in the inside corner of a dogs eye and helps to protect it from irritation by cleansing and lubricating the eye.
Most of the eye diseases and problems seen in dogs are the same as those found in humans. One of the most common problems seen in dogs is due to simple eye irritation. The same environmental irritants that afflict us afflict our dogs. Dust, smoke and chemical pollution are the commonest cause of watery irritable eyes in our favorite pets. Apart from seeing red, teary eyes which are often swollen, you will likely observe your dog rubbing or scratching at their eyes. Look carefully at whether both or only one eye is irritated. Symptoms occurring in only one eye usually mean a foreign body or injury in the eye involved.
Blocked tear ducts can also produce excessively watery eyes in dogs as well as humans. In some dog breeds, such as older Poodles and Shih Tzu's, you will often see damp matted fur around their eyes that signals tear duct blockages. An expert opinion from a vet is often needed to tell the difference between the different causes of watery eyes.
Another trait that elderly dogs share with elderly humans is the development of cataracts. Most long-term dog owners have seen the cloudy milky haze that spreads in the center of each pupil as the cataracts form. This milky haze is the lens inside your dog’s eye becoming opaque and the dog slowly becomes blind. It's important to distinguish cataract from another change called Lenticular Sclerosis. Lenticular Sclerosis is a condition which looks similar to cataract but where the only the center of the dogs lens hardens and vision remains unaffected. Both problems are seen in elderly dogs.
One significant advantage that aging dogs have compared to humans is that eye damage and blindness does not incapacitate them to the same extent as human blindness. Good hearing and an acute sense of smell compensate well. There are many stories told of blind dogs managing wonderfully well in life and it's a pity we aging humans are unable to see through the "eyes" of our beloved dogs at times!
Unless you were born blind you already know how valuable your eyes and vision are in coping with life. Helping us to process information on the world around us, our eyes constantly work to help us enjoy life and avoid danger.
Dogs also use their eyes in similar ways but with a few minor important differences. We see far and near fine detail in a wide range of colors and shades. Dogs however, even sight hounds which have good vision, have a poorer color range and they are much better at detecting movement rather than detail. This gives them an advantage with night vision but they are poorer at seeing fine or close detail. The main advantage dogs have is that they don't have to rely purely on vision for information on their world. An acute sense of smell and excellent hearing, along with good motion sensing vision, mean that dogs sense much more of their surrounds than mere humans. This extended sensory ability made them ideal companions to early man when danger lurked around every corner.
Dog’s eyes even look remarkably similar to human eyes. Like us, dogs have a range of eye colors although their predominant color is brown. One important difference between us is that dogs have a third eyelid called a nictitating membrane. Although this membrane is not easily seen, certain diseases and eye irritation can make it stand out. The third eyelid sits in the inside corner of a dogs eye and helps to protect it from irritation by cleansing and lubricating the eye.
Most of the eye diseases and problems seen in dogs are the same as those found in humans. One of the most common problems seen in dogs is due to simple eye irritation. The same environmental irritants that afflict us afflict our dogs. Dust, smoke and chemical pollution are the commonest cause of watery irritable eyes in our favorite pets. Apart from seeing red, teary eyes which are often swollen, you will likely observe your dog rubbing or scratching at their eyes. Look carefully at whether both or only one eye is irritated. Symptoms occurring in only one eye usually mean a foreign body or injury in the eye involved.
Blocked tear ducts can also produce excessively watery eyes in dogs as well as humans. In some dog breeds, such as older Poodles and Shih Tzu's, you will often see damp matted fur around their eyes that signals tear duct blockages. An expert opinion from a vet is often needed to tell the difference between the different causes of watery eyes.
Another trait that elderly dogs share with elderly humans is the development of cataracts. Most long-term dog owners have seen the cloudy milky haze that spreads in the center of each pupil as the cataracts form. This milky haze is the lens inside your dog’s eye becoming opaque and the dog slowly becomes blind. It's important to distinguish cataract from another change called Lenticular Sclerosis. Lenticular Sclerosis is a condition which looks similar to cataract but where the only the center of the dogs lens hardens and vision remains unaffected. Both problems are seen in elderly dogs.
One significant advantage that aging dogs have compared to humans is that eye damage and blindness does not incapacitate them to the same extent as human blindness. Good hearing and an acute sense of smell compensate well. There are many stories told of blind dogs managing wonderfully well in life and it's a pity we aging humans are unable to see through the "eyes" of our beloved dogs at times!
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
8 Cat Food, Snack, & Meal
Cat Food #1 : CHEESE PLEASE
1/2 cup grated cheese
2 tbl plain yogurt or sour cream
A little oatmeal
2 tbl margarine or low-fat spread
Serves one
Mash all of the ingredients together, adding them in the order indicated above, and serve cold. No cooking is required for this dish. Some cats will not take to this dish as it is not meat based: others will love it.
Cat Food #2 : CHICKENS AND PASTA STEW
2 packages ground chicken (Or turkey)
2-3 small carrots, cooked
2-3 cups macaroni (Cooked)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Garlic
Boil the macaroni until tender. Cook up the chicken in a frying pan. Mix everything together in food processor. Add the oil and the garlic. Mix well.
Cat Food #3 : BEEF AND VEGGIE BROTH
1/2 cup raw trimmed beef
A few tablespoons of beef broth (Preferably not the canned or cubed variety)
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal
1 tablespoon dried barley grass powder (Find at a pet food store)
1 cooked minced veggie (Your cat's favorite - Carrots are often a favorite)
Cook raw trimmed beef in just enough broth to cover, over medium to low heat. When beef is cooked thru shred with fork and mix with the broth in which it was cooked. Add the minced veggie and the barley grass powder. Stir well. Last add the oatmeal to achieve the consistency that your cat likes. This is a good cat food recipe for indoor pets
Cat Food #4 : CHICKEN AND SARDINES
1 can sardines in olive oil
1/4 cup whole grain bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten
1/2 tsp brewer's yeast
2 cooked chicken drumsticks, bones removed
Drain the sardines, reserving the olive oil, and mash. Mix in the bread crumbs, egg and yeast to an even, gooey consistency. Coat the chicken drumsticks evenly in the mixture. Heat the reserved olive oil in a frying pan then add the coated drumsticks and fry, turning frequently, until brown. Remove from the heat, and cool before serving.
Cat Food #5 : CHICKEN SOUP
Combine 1 chicken liver, 1 giblet, 1 chicken heart, 1 chicken neck, 2 cups water and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
Cover and simmer until the giblet is tender.
Chop all the meat for dogs removing bones and mix with kibble; for cats, grind the meat in the blender.
Cat Food #6 : BETTER THAN GRASS SALAD
1 small carrot peeled and grated
1/4 cup peeled and grated zucchini
1/2 cup chopped alfalfa sprouts
1 tsp. finely chopped parsley
1/8 cup chicken stock
1/4 tsp dried or fresh catnip
Combine veggies in a medium bowl. Add chicken stock and toss. Sprinkle with catnip and serve at room temperature.
Store left overs in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Cat Food #7 : CRISPY TROUT DINNER
1 egg yolk
1 small trout fillet
3 tbl oatmeal
1 tbl vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Beat the egg, dip the fish in it, and then coat it with oatmeal. Put the oil in a small baking pan and lay the fillet in it, turning it over once or twice. Bake for 15 minutes, turn over and bake for 15 minutes more. Remove the fish to a dish, allow to cool. Cut into bite-sized pieces.
Serving suggestion: if it looks a little dry, add a dash of cream.
Cat Food #8 : CHICKEN CHEESEBURGER
2 oz finely ground beef
2 oz finely ground chicken
1 tbl canned thick chicken soup
2 oz whole grain bread crumbs or oatmeal
1 baby carrot, cooked until soft
1 egg
1/2 cup grated cheese
Mash the meat and chicken with the soup then add the bread crumbs or oatmeal, mushy carrot and egg. Make into two small burgers and broil (leaving much rarer than you would for yourself). Sprinkle with grated cheese and broil again until the cheese is melted. Allow to cool until warm to the touch, and serve.
1/2 cup grated cheese
2 tbl plain yogurt or sour cream
A little oatmeal
2 tbl margarine or low-fat spread
Serves one
Mash all of the ingredients together, adding them in the order indicated above, and serve cold. No cooking is required for this dish. Some cats will not take to this dish as it is not meat based: others will love it.
Cat Food #2 : CHICKENS AND PASTA STEW
2 packages ground chicken (Or turkey)
2-3 small carrots, cooked
2-3 cups macaroni (Cooked)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Garlic
Boil the macaroni until tender. Cook up the chicken in a frying pan. Mix everything together in food processor. Add the oil and the garlic. Mix well.
Cat Food #3 : BEEF AND VEGGIE BROTH
1/2 cup raw trimmed beef
A few tablespoons of beef broth (Preferably not the canned or cubed variety)
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal
1 tablespoon dried barley grass powder (Find at a pet food store)
1 cooked minced veggie (Your cat's favorite - Carrots are often a favorite)
Cook raw trimmed beef in just enough broth to cover, over medium to low heat. When beef is cooked thru shred with fork and mix with the broth in which it was cooked. Add the minced veggie and the barley grass powder. Stir well. Last add the oatmeal to achieve the consistency that your cat likes. This is a good cat food recipe for indoor pets
Cat Food #4 : CHICKEN AND SARDINES
1 can sardines in olive oil
1/4 cup whole grain bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten
1/2 tsp brewer's yeast
2 cooked chicken drumsticks, bones removed
Drain the sardines, reserving the olive oil, and mash. Mix in the bread crumbs, egg and yeast to an even, gooey consistency. Coat the chicken drumsticks evenly in the mixture. Heat the reserved olive oil in a frying pan then add the coated drumsticks and fry, turning frequently, until brown. Remove from the heat, and cool before serving.
Cat Food #5 : CHICKEN SOUP
Combine 1 chicken liver, 1 giblet, 1 chicken heart, 1 chicken neck, 2 cups water and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
Cover and simmer until the giblet is tender.
Chop all the meat for dogs removing bones and mix with kibble; for cats, grind the meat in the blender.
Cat Food #6 : BETTER THAN GRASS SALAD
1 small carrot peeled and grated
1/4 cup peeled and grated zucchini
1/2 cup chopped alfalfa sprouts
1 tsp. finely chopped parsley
1/8 cup chicken stock
1/4 tsp dried or fresh catnip
Combine veggies in a medium bowl. Add chicken stock and toss. Sprinkle with catnip and serve at room temperature.
Store left overs in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Cat Food #7 : CRISPY TROUT DINNER
1 egg yolk
1 small trout fillet
3 tbl oatmeal
1 tbl vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Beat the egg, dip the fish in it, and then coat it with oatmeal. Put the oil in a small baking pan and lay the fillet in it, turning it over once or twice. Bake for 15 minutes, turn over and bake for 15 minutes more. Remove the fish to a dish, allow to cool. Cut into bite-sized pieces.
Serving suggestion: if it looks a little dry, add a dash of cream.
Cat Food #8 : CHICKEN CHEESEBURGER
2 oz finely ground beef
2 oz finely ground chicken
1 tbl canned thick chicken soup
2 oz whole grain bread crumbs or oatmeal
1 baby carrot, cooked until soft
1 egg
1/2 cup grated cheese
Mash the meat and chicken with the soup then add the bread crumbs or oatmeal, mushy carrot and egg. Make into two small burgers and broil (leaving much rarer than you would for yourself). Sprinkle with grated cheese and broil again until the cheese is melted. Allow to cool until warm to the touch, and serve.
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Litterbox Training for Cats
Training Cats at Home
Most people love animals and it is the preference of the person which type of pet is ideal his or her own home. This could be a fish that is in an aquarium that has to be fed and the tank cleaned at least once a week, a dog that has to be fed and walked and bathed or even something as furry and cute as a cat.
Cats are one of the cleanest animals around since by nature, they have the ability to clean themselves without any assistance. Even if that is the case, it does not prevent these pets from soiling the apartment or the house so the cat has to be trained through the use of a litter box.
Choosing the right litter box for the cat will really depend on the size of the cat that is inside one’s home. The box has to be big enough for the cat to move around in and easily accessible for it to go inside.
This begins by making observations of the pet at home. When the cat begins to move in a strange manner, then it is time to pick it up and rush it to the litter box. Some people have already had the experience of not making it in time which will mean cleaning up the trail of what the pet left behind.
Another unfortunate instance is coming home and finding waste. The best way to train the cat when this happens is picking up the waste and putting it in the box. Then one should pick up the cat and let it stay there for some time which will help the animal realize what to do the next time when there is an urge.
The interior of the box should have some form of filler that will make the place comfortable for the cat. A person can use some old newspapers or old rags. And if this does not work, then one can ask the advice of neighbors who may have some experience with cats at home.
If the house is quite large, it is advisable to provide more than one litter box to make it easily available for the cat. Since the waste of the cat smells just like that of other animals, one should get rid of it immediately and replace the litter so that the odor does not penetrate the entire home.
Cats, just like any other animals, will require some form of maintenance. Training the cat to use a litter box might take more than a day but in the long term, it will keep the house clean of waste lying around.
Most people love animals and it is the preference of the person which type of pet is ideal his or her own home. This could be a fish that is in an aquarium that has to be fed and the tank cleaned at least once a week, a dog that has to be fed and walked and bathed or even something as furry and cute as a cat.
Cats are one of the cleanest animals around since by nature, they have the ability to clean themselves without any assistance. Even if that is the case, it does not prevent these pets from soiling the apartment or the house so the cat has to be trained through the use of a litter box.
Choosing the right litter box for the cat will really depend on the size of the cat that is inside one’s home. The box has to be big enough for the cat to move around in and easily accessible for it to go inside.
This begins by making observations of the pet at home. When the cat begins to move in a strange manner, then it is time to pick it up and rush it to the litter box. Some people have already had the experience of not making it in time which will mean cleaning up the trail of what the pet left behind.
Another unfortunate instance is coming home and finding waste. The best way to train the cat when this happens is picking up the waste and putting it in the box. Then one should pick up the cat and let it stay there for some time which will help the animal realize what to do the next time when there is an urge.
The interior of the box should have some form of filler that will make the place comfortable for the cat. A person can use some old newspapers or old rags. And if this does not work, then one can ask the advice of neighbors who may have some experience with cats at home.
If the house is quite large, it is advisable to provide more than one litter box to make it easily available for the cat. Since the waste of the cat smells just like that of other animals, one should get rid of it immediately and replace the litter so that the odor does not penetrate the entire home.
Cats, just like any other animals, will require some form of maintenance. Training the cat to use a litter box might take more than a day but in the long term, it will keep the house clean of waste lying around.
Thursday, May 4, 2006
Automatic Litter Boxes
Cat Products: Automatic Litter Boxes
Litter boxes are important to cats and are considered to be the next in importance to their food. Like people who love their toilets clean, cats don’t really love messy and smelly litter boxes. They want some place where they can move around and do their stuff. Litter boxes are available on the market and come in different size and shapes.
Be sure to buy something your cat won’t outgrow easily. Most cats, especially those below 5-6 months old can easily outgrow their litter boxes. Make sure to buy something that your cat will not out-grow or you’ll end up buying more litter boxes in a short time.
Another thing to keep in mind is that some cats don’t want to poop in the same box they pee in. Peeing is an animal’s way of marking her territory and she may not want to poop because it will erase her scent. So if your cat is like this, just buy another litter box and put it some place far away from the first one so she will not look at it as another box to pee in.
Automatic litter boxes are for people who don’t cherish the chore of cleaning litter boxes each day. These boxes are not cheap but a great idea when time is of importance.
These self-cleaning boxes use robotic trays where your cat’s waste is automatically raked into a sealable container shortly after your cat uses the litter box. These will not operate until your cat leaves the box since it uses motion detectors and a safety bar to stop the cleaning rake from harming your cat.
The best thing about these automatic litter boxes is that you’ll find that the odor is greatly reduced. Once the cat’s waste is in the container, it will automatically seal itself and cause the odor to be trapped inside. However, you must remember to empty this container once it is full or close to being full or its odor will become unbearable. Simply empty the storage container and reinsert it or purchase a replacement container.
One thing about automatic litter boxes is that they generally need electricity to run so you should place it close to a power outlet. There are some automatic litter boxes that can be operated with batteries so it is advisable to keep extra batteries on hand.
Another thing to remember is that the automatic litter box should be one-half to three-fourths full of litter. Use premium litter with it because some litter clumps will break up and cause the box not to be properly cleaned.
Most of the cat owners who have tried automatic litter boxes are happy with them and would prefer them to scooping up a mess.. Other cat owners though have a hard time adjusting to it. Automatic litter boxes, especially when the rake is in motion are not that quiet and the noise is something that needs to take time to get used to.
One good reason for using automatic litter boxes is health considerations. There are certain flu-like diseases that are caused by cat’s waste and can cause a person to have swollen glands, muscle pain, fever and headache. In some cases it can also cause brain damage and damage to your eyes and internal organs. For newly born children, this could cause mental retardation and/or hearing and sight loss. This is often caused by coming in contact with a cat’s waste and accidentally swallowing the virus in it. This can happen by touching your face after cleaning your cat’s litter box so wash your hands thoroughly after contact.
Cats will have certain problems when using non-automatic litter boxes also. Cats can have UTI (urinary tract infection) after using a dirty litter box. After using litter boxes, cats usually clean themselves up by licking their paws causing them to ingest the virus and cause them to get sick. Although not really fatal, this will cause discomfort for your pet and can only be cured by consulting a veterinarian.
Litter boxes are important to cats and are considered to be the next in importance to their food. Like people who love their toilets clean, cats don’t really love messy and smelly litter boxes. They want some place where they can move around and do their stuff. Litter boxes are available on the market and come in different size and shapes.
Be sure to buy something your cat won’t outgrow easily. Most cats, especially those below 5-6 months old can easily outgrow their litter boxes. Make sure to buy something that your cat will not out-grow or you’ll end up buying more litter boxes in a short time.
Another thing to keep in mind is that some cats don’t want to poop in the same box they pee in. Peeing is an animal’s way of marking her territory and she may not want to poop because it will erase her scent. So if your cat is like this, just buy another litter box and put it some place far away from the first one so she will not look at it as another box to pee in.
Automatic litter boxes are for people who don’t cherish the chore of cleaning litter boxes each day. These boxes are not cheap but a great idea when time is of importance.
These self-cleaning boxes use robotic trays where your cat’s waste is automatically raked into a sealable container shortly after your cat uses the litter box. These will not operate until your cat leaves the box since it uses motion detectors and a safety bar to stop the cleaning rake from harming your cat.
The best thing about these automatic litter boxes is that you’ll find that the odor is greatly reduced. Once the cat’s waste is in the container, it will automatically seal itself and cause the odor to be trapped inside. However, you must remember to empty this container once it is full or close to being full or its odor will become unbearable. Simply empty the storage container and reinsert it or purchase a replacement container.
One thing about automatic litter boxes is that they generally need electricity to run so you should place it close to a power outlet. There are some automatic litter boxes that can be operated with batteries so it is advisable to keep extra batteries on hand.
Another thing to remember is that the automatic litter box should be one-half to three-fourths full of litter. Use premium litter with it because some litter clumps will break up and cause the box not to be properly cleaned.
Most of the cat owners who have tried automatic litter boxes are happy with them and would prefer them to scooping up a mess.. Other cat owners though have a hard time adjusting to it. Automatic litter boxes, especially when the rake is in motion are not that quiet and the noise is something that needs to take time to get used to.
One good reason for using automatic litter boxes is health considerations. There are certain flu-like diseases that are caused by cat’s waste and can cause a person to have swollen glands, muscle pain, fever and headache. In some cases it can also cause brain damage and damage to your eyes and internal organs. For newly born children, this could cause mental retardation and/or hearing and sight loss. This is often caused by coming in contact with a cat’s waste and accidentally swallowing the virus in it. This can happen by touching your face after cleaning your cat’s litter box so wash your hands thoroughly after contact.
Cats will have certain problems when using non-automatic litter boxes also. Cats can have UTI (urinary tract infection) after using a dirty litter box. After using litter boxes, cats usually clean themselves up by licking their paws causing them to ingest the virus and cause them to get sick. Although not really fatal, this will cause discomfort for your pet and can only be cured by consulting a veterinarian.
Tuesday, May 2, 2006
Repel Cats Safely and Easily
Cats in general are loveable creatures. However, it is possible that some of them get on the bad side of the household. Thus, it is necessary to address the situation when the cats are the problem.
Stray cats are actually the problem. Cats that do not have owners to train them have made the whole neighborhood their home. They ruin the garden. They mess up the trash can. Thus, one should seek for solutions that will keep the cats away. Repel them.
At the same time, repelling cats should be done in the most ‘humane’ way possible. There are several options to consider in keeping those mean cats away, easily and safely.
Cat Powder
Easy to apply to the garden, these cat powders appeal to the instincts of the cats. These contain the scent of a predator, usually a coyote. Cats recognize the territoriality of animals, thus having such scent in the house would keep them away.
One only has to sprinkle this in the desired area. The ones available in the market are usually not harmful to children and to the plants in the garden.
Sound Repellent
This creates sounds that are extremely annoying to a cat but remains undetected to humans.
Cat Scatmats
Some use the scatmats for the more stubborn ones. These are thin mats that can be situated on the floor, garden furniture or window sills. They are battery-charged. Any animal that would walk on it will receive an unpleasant shock. Cats are found to be sensitive to the mild shock, enough to discourage them from returning.
Water Sprayer
The market offers this very helpful repellent. It is connected to the garden hose and has a sensor for movements. Any unwarranted movement of a stray cat will result to a blast of water to fright the cats.
Liquid Repellent
It can be sprayed on any surface that cats may or constantly claw on. It has a terrible taste that would be noticed by the cat when it grooms itself. The cat will automatically avoid such locations.
Air Repellent
Some repellents use a blast of air to keep cats away. Cats will find this scary. The tools come with a distinct sound that will be helpful in scaring cats away.
Odor neutralizer
Cats often leave lingering scent trail on the garden that only attract more cats The odor neutralizer will use enzymes that will rid of the odor and bacteria. Just make sure that this is applied directly to the scent trail.
With these aids and tools at hand, the cat problem is resolved. These defenses are sure way to secure the household and get rid of the headache.
Stray cats are actually the problem. Cats that do not have owners to train them have made the whole neighborhood their home. They ruin the garden. They mess up the trash can. Thus, one should seek for solutions that will keep the cats away. Repel them.
At the same time, repelling cats should be done in the most ‘humane’ way possible. There are several options to consider in keeping those mean cats away, easily and safely.
Cat Powder
Easy to apply to the garden, these cat powders appeal to the instincts of the cats. These contain the scent of a predator, usually a coyote. Cats recognize the territoriality of animals, thus having such scent in the house would keep them away.
One only has to sprinkle this in the desired area. The ones available in the market are usually not harmful to children and to the plants in the garden.
Sound Repellent
This creates sounds that are extremely annoying to a cat but remains undetected to humans.
Cat Scatmats
Some use the scatmats for the more stubborn ones. These are thin mats that can be situated on the floor, garden furniture or window sills. They are battery-charged. Any animal that would walk on it will receive an unpleasant shock. Cats are found to be sensitive to the mild shock, enough to discourage them from returning.
Water Sprayer
The market offers this very helpful repellent. It is connected to the garden hose and has a sensor for movements. Any unwarranted movement of a stray cat will result to a blast of water to fright the cats.
Liquid Repellent
It can be sprayed on any surface that cats may or constantly claw on. It has a terrible taste that would be noticed by the cat when it grooms itself. The cat will automatically avoid such locations.
Air Repellent
Some repellents use a blast of air to keep cats away. Cats will find this scary. The tools come with a distinct sound that will be helpful in scaring cats away.
Odor neutralizer
Cats often leave lingering scent trail on the garden that only attract more cats The odor neutralizer will use enzymes that will rid of the odor and bacteria. Just make sure that this is applied directly to the scent trail.
With these aids and tools at hand, the cat problem is resolved. These defenses are sure way to secure the household and get rid of the headache.
Monday, April 24, 2006
Choosing the better Cat litter
Cat litters used in the olden days, meaning prior to the commercial cat litters now found in neighborhood grocery stores, are literally litters. Usually these were dirt gathered from gardens.
Now, there are a variety of cat litters to choose from. These cat litters, for the most part, are great for the cat as well as good for the environment.
The following are tips and advice to make better a cat owner’s selection of the best litter possible for their cats.
Choose wisely
The choice of cat litters should primarily be based on how much this litter will affect the environment just as how much such litter is preferred by cats. Although cats really do not care much about how the litter may soon end up in a landfill, cats really prefer if their litter has no bad scent. They also care if the litter feels good.
Cats have a very keen sense of smell, so it is important that litters have little or no scents that are made artificially. It is also best if the litter contains no dust. It will do cats no good if their noses are irritated since they will try to avoid going thru the litter if it displeases them in any way.
Ask wisely
Cats love the feel of sand with pellets or any surface that has shreds and bits of chunks. It is best that a cat owner know which kind his or her cat prefers.
But to further help a confused cat owner decide, questions such as the following should be best asked :
Is the cat litter easily flushed in the toilet? Is it free from odors? Does the litter contain any form of perfumes or chemicals? Is the litter safe for the cat, the owner, the environment? Does the cat like the feel of the litter? How much does it cost and is it easily accessible ?
Be aware
There are environment-friendly litters that are made from newspapers that are recycled. These types of litters can be easily flushed, can easily be burned and are almost a hundred percent free from dust.
There are also litters that came from plants. These litters usually come from corn – its husks, the cob and the corn itself. Byproducts of wheat such as wheat grass are also a source of cat litter.
But the best among all of these are the corn cobs because they are odorless as well as it control odor. It is absorbent as well. They also do not produce a lot of dust and are easily flushed.
Litter from pine and sawdust
These types of litter are also biodegradable. They are made by drying and compressing them into pellet-forms. They absorb moisture a number of times more than their weight until they break down again into natural sawdust. Due to their easily absorbent nature, any odor is naturally eliminated.
Be wary though, pine has natural resins and chemicals that aid in the elimination of insects and odor-causing bacteria because of its insecticide-like properties. This same feature could also cause respiratory damage as well as asthma and allergies. Humans as well as cats may easily be susceptible to such allergens.
Do not be afraid of odor
Odor is one way by which nature tells the un-aware cat owner that it is time to replace the litter. Cat litter should be regularly changed so that bacteria or micro-organisms will not collect in it. If odor persists check the diet your cat is consuming as that may also be the cause.
Cats and Clay
Clay is the most common type of litter being used today. A specific kind of clay made of sodium bentonite has a special feature that when it is urinated on by cats a clump is formed making it more convenient to remove the clumps from the litter. However, such clay is carcinogenic and is easily absorbed by the lungs of cats.
All in all, the choice depends on the cat owner’s preference, budget and favorites. After all, cats are everyone’s best fuzzy, soft, cuddly and gentle meowing friends.
Now, there are a variety of cat litters to choose from. These cat litters, for the most part, are great for the cat as well as good for the environment.
The following are tips and advice to make better a cat owner’s selection of the best litter possible for their cats.
Choose wisely
The choice of cat litters should primarily be based on how much this litter will affect the environment just as how much such litter is preferred by cats. Although cats really do not care much about how the litter may soon end up in a landfill, cats really prefer if their litter has no bad scent. They also care if the litter feels good.
Cats have a very keen sense of smell, so it is important that litters have little or no scents that are made artificially. It is also best if the litter contains no dust. It will do cats no good if their noses are irritated since they will try to avoid going thru the litter if it displeases them in any way.
Ask wisely
Cats love the feel of sand with pellets or any surface that has shreds and bits of chunks. It is best that a cat owner know which kind his or her cat prefers.
But to further help a confused cat owner decide, questions such as the following should be best asked :
Is the cat litter easily flushed in the toilet? Is it free from odors? Does the litter contain any form of perfumes or chemicals? Is the litter safe for the cat, the owner, the environment? Does the cat like the feel of the litter? How much does it cost and is it easily accessible ?
Be aware
There are environment-friendly litters that are made from newspapers that are recycled. These types of litters can be easily flushed, can easily be burned and are almost a hundred percent free from dust.
There are also litters that came from plants. These litters usually come from corn – its husks, the cob and the corn itself. Byproducts of wheat such as wheat grass are also a source of cat litter.
But the best among all of these are the corn cobs because they are odorless as well as it control odor. It is absorbent as well. They also do not produce a lot of dust and are easily flushed.
Litter from pine and sawdust
These types of litter are also biodegradable. They are made by drying and compressing them into pellet-forms. They absorb moisture a number of times more than their weight until they break down again into natural sawdust. Due to their easily absorbent nature, any odor is naturally eliminated.
Be wary though, pine has natural resins and chemicals that aid in the elimination of insects and odor-causing bacteria because of its insecticide-like properties. This same feature could also cause respiratory damage as well as asthma and allergies. Humans as well as cats may easily be susceptible to such allergens.
Do not be afraid of odor
Odor is one way by which nature tells the un-aware cat owner that it is time to replace the litter. Cat litter should be regularly changed so that bacteria or micro-organisms will not collect in it. If odor persists check the diet your cat is consuming as that may also be the cause.
Cats and Clay
Clay is the most common type of litter being used today. A specific kind of clay made of sodium bentonite has a special feature that when it is urinated on by cats a clump is formed making it more convenient to remove the clumps from the litter. However, such clay is carcinogenic and is easily absorbed by the lungs of cats.
All in all, the choice depends on the cat owner’s preference, budget and favorites. After all, cats are everyone’s best fuzzy, soft, cuddly and gentle meowing friends.
Monday, March 13, 2006
Removing Pet Odors
How to Remove Pet Odors is valuable knowledge for those homeowners that have odor problems because of their pets. Keeping pets does not come without these problems. However, sometimes people who do not even keep pets may face problems related to pet odor. Therefore, pet odors are a problem known to many, and it is a problem that has been of some attention for several years, with professionals devising formulas to solve the problem. The most common and effective means of pet odor removal has been a process that involves the use of bacteria and enzymes.
Process of Removing Pet Odors:
The process that most effectively removes pet odor includes laboratory- produced bacteria that rapidly produce enzymes. Experts assert that it is the basically the active nature of the bacteria that causes odor breakdown wit the aid of the enzymes speeding up the breakdown or decomposition. At the end of the process, there is nothing left of the odor causing source. This means that the source of odor no longer exists, so the odor can no longer exist.
Causes of Pet Odors and How They Can Be Removed:
Basically, what the enzyme/bacteria method acts on are the substances that make up the urine content. Urine comprises of substances like creatine, urea, substances removed from the body that are detoxified, Sodium Chloride, etc. Usually, when urine is relatively fresh, all these substances do not act together. Instead, freshly excreted urine does not really pose a problem; it is the ammoniacal odor of older urine that causes a problem. This smell is usually caused because of the gradual breakdown of urine contents. The enzyme/bacteria method of getting rid of stale urine content is believed to be the most effective method. This is because this method works of the principle of breaking down all urine content at a very quick rate.
Steps Involved in the Bacteria/Enzyme Removal Process:
Removal of Pet Odor takes place through the following steps:
In contrast to the bacteria/enzyme process, home remedies are sometimes sought. How effective they might be is questionable. This is because of the fact that they often do not get to the source of the problem in contrast to the pet odor removal method mentioned above. Home remedies might include: odor removal powders, quaternary disinfectants, vinegar products, oxy products, ammonia solution, etc. These remove odors marginally, and then there is always the reoccurrence of odors that one might have to deal with.
In view of the chances of pet odors returning, it is best to stick with the more effective bacteria/enzyme removal process for removal of pet odor.
Process of Removing Pet Odors:
The process that most effectively removes pet odor includes laboratory- produced bacteria that rapidly produce enzymes. Experts assert that it is the basically the active nature of the bacteria that causes odor breakdown wit the aid of the enzymes speeding up the breakdown or decomposition. At the end of the process, there is nothing left of the odor causing source. This means that the source of odor no longer exists, so the odor can no longer exist.
Causes of Pet Odors and How They Can Be Removed:
Basically, what the enzyme/bacteria method acts on are the substances that make up the urine content. Urine comprises of substances like creatine, urea, substances removed from the body that are detoxified, Sodium Chloride, etc. Usually, when urine is relatively fresh, all these substances do not act together. Instead, freshly excreted urine does not really pose a problem; it is the ammoniacal odor of older urine that causes a problem. This smell is usually caused because of the gradual breakdown of urine contents. The enzyme/bacteria method of getting rid of stale urine content is believed to be the most effective method. This is because this method works of the principle of breaking down all urine content at a very quick rate.
Steps Involved in the Bacteria/Enzyme Removal Process:
Removal of Pet Odor takes place through the following steps:
- Introduction of removal agent to the source of pet odor. The removal agent acts immediately, and the molecules of urine content are broken down even deep down in a carpet. The enzymes are catalysts that favor the break down process.
- The bacteria get into a speedy mode of breaking down all the molecules while the multiply at a quick rate.
- Once all the urine content is devoured, the bacteria breakdown, and the odor diminishes.
In contrast to the bacteria/enzyme process, home remedies are sometimes sought. How effective they might be is questionable. This is because of the fact that they often do not get to the source of the problem in contrast to the pet odor removal method mentioned above. Home remedies might include: odor removal powders, quaternary disinfectants, vinegar products, oxy products, ammonia solution, etc. These remove odors marginally, and then there is always the reoccurrence of odors that one might have to deal with.
In view of the chances of pet odors returning, it is best to stick with the more effective bacteria/enzyme removal process for removal of pet odor.
Thursday, March 9, 2006
Removing Cat Urine Odor
Like some homeowners have to deal with pet odors, Cat Urine Odor one of these. In fact, some believe that cat urine odor is one of the strongest odors of all pets. However, this does not mean that this odor cannot be removed, as there are known methods and products that are capable of getting rid of cat urine odor for you. The enzyme/bacteria method is believed to be the most effective method of removing cat urine odor, as it gets down to the root of the problem. This is because of the fact that the enzyme/bacteria process is capable of getting to deep areas where cat urine may be deposited.
Cause of Unusual Cat Urine Odor:
Among several factors that could affect the cat urine odor intensity, it is the diet and sex of cats that can be pinpointed. It is said that male cats have strong urine odor than female cats. This is because of the diet being high in protein, coupled by the male hormone in their bodies. Next in odor intensity would be female cats, and then dogs.
Another important factor that causes stronger cat urine odors is the age of the animal. This is because of the fact that the older an animal is the greater the chances are of its kidneys not functioning properly.
Locating Cat Urine:
The most common method employed includes black light that usually reveals a glow where cat urine is detected. Usually, one will find male cat urine deposits on furniture and areas that they find convenient for marking their territory. However, their urine may also fall on carpeted areas and ones from where it is difficult to remove it. Females prefer to use open areas in contrast to the males that prefer depositing their urine in smaller amounts to mark their territory.
Cat Urine Odor Removal:
The process of removing cat urine odor includes employing the enzyme/bacteria method. This includes introduction of an enzyme/bacteria agent that set to work on the urine content immediately.
The enzymes in the agent favor bacterial action, and cause bacteria to multiply rapidly, thereby, increasing the breakdown of the urine contents. Once all the urine contents are broken down, the source of odor diminishes, and the cat odor removal process terminates.
Safety of the Enzyme/Bacteria process:
Often, the process by which the enzyme/bacteria process operates is questioned with regard to safety. Yes, this process is believed to be safe to use at home even if there are children in the house. This is because of the fact that agent used in the process of removing cat odors breaks down once the process is over. It breaks down into Carbon Dioxide and Water. These are harmless substances that pose no threat to anyone. However, as a precautionary measure, it is best to keep children away from the agent while it is still working. This would mean keeping children away from the area of treatment until the prescribed period for cat urine’s odor removal has expired.
Cause of Unusual Cat Urine Odor:
Among several factors that could affect the cat urine odor intensity, it is the diet and sex of cats that can be pinpointed. It is said that male cats have strong urine odor than female cats. This is because of the diet being high in protein, coupled by the male hormone in their bodies. Next in odor intensity would be female cats, and then dogs.
Another important factor that causes stronger cat urine odors is the age of the animal. This is because of the fact that the older an animal is the greater the chances are of its kidneys not functioning properly.
Locating Cat Urine:
The most common method employed includes black light that usually reveals a glow where cat urine is detected. Usually, one will find male cat urine deposits on furniture and areas that they find convenient for marking their territory. However, their urine may also fall on carpeted areas and ones from where it is difficult to remove it. Females prefer to use open areas in contrast to the males that prefer depositing their urine in smaller amounts to mark their territory.
Cat Urine Odor Removal:
The process of removing cat urine odor includes employing the enzyme/bacteria method. This includes introduction of an enzyme/bacteria agent that set to work on the urine content immediately.
The enzymes in the agent favor bacterial action, and cause bacteria to multiply rapidly, thereby, increasing the breakdown of the urine contents. Once all the urine contents are broken down, the source of odor diminishes, and the cat odor removal process terminates.
Safety of the Enzyme/Bacteria process:
Often, the process by which the enzyme/bacteria process operates is questioned with regard to safety. Yes, this process is believed to be safe to use at home even if there are children in the house. This is because of the fact that agent used in the process of removing cat odors breaks down once the process is over. It breaks down into Carbon Dioxide and Water. These are harmless substances that pose no threat to anyone. However, as a precautionary measure, it is best to keep children away from the agent while it is still working. This would mean keeping children away from the area of treatment until the prescribed period for cat urine’s odor removal has expired.
Thursday, February 9, 2006
Dog Heroes
Dog Heroes: All Time Heroes
Everyday, people witness countless acts of heroism, big and small. Heroes, too, come in different shapes and sizes, forms and breeds, man and animals alike. Dolphins, seals, horses, cats and whales are just a few from the animal kingdom that display tremendous protective instincts that save man from all sorts of danger. But nothing beats “the man’s best friend”.
After displays of great courage and bravery during World War I, dogs have seen in a different light. They were thrust into the limelight unknowingly. Since then, dogs have been called all time heroes – recognized, rescued, trained and cared for by man. All kinds of awards were given to dogs to celebrate their heroism and saving prowess such as the “Dog Hero of the Year Award.”
The dogs carry on a long line of lifesavers. They have shown unthinkable acts of saving adults and children alike in grave danger like fire, drowning, road and home accidents, intruders and robbers, and even in a huge tragedy like 9/11. The images of heroic dogs finding possible survivors or even lost bodies under rubble and debris in ground zero crushed the hearts of many Americans.
These canine heroes come from all breeds, backgrounds and locations. Take note, they are not pedigreed. These dog heroes are not at all dominated by big dogs, though they are often used for the purpose of national security. Their breeds vary from the famous German Shepherd, Saint Bernard and Collies (remember Lassie?) to Poodle, Labrador, American Pit Bull Terrier, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Cocker Spaniel, Doberman, Pinscher, English Springer Spaniel, Golden Retriever, Great Dane, Newfoundland, Rottweiler, Shetland, Sheepdog, Terrier and Weimaraner.
During the Vietnam War, 4,000 dogs were recruited to assist and protect U.S. troops, thus preventing an estimate of 10,000 plus American casualties. At that time, they were considered “surplus armaments”. They were either euthanized or left to their fates in Vietnam. Now, books and documentaries preserved the memories of countless canines that aided in the protection of mankind.
Today, dog heroes play an even more critical role in the fight against terrorism. The ability of dogs to detect bombs is already proven since World War I. A German shepherd’s nose has 250 billion smelling cells to give it the ability to detect a target odor amidst all other odors.
Breeds do not guarantee a “dog hero status.” Like men, dogs need a rare set of attributes to stand out: intelligence, being calm even in the presence of loud noise, focus amidst distractions and a compulsive desire to play with a toy. After all, the game is to find the scent and get the toy.
Everyday, people witness countless acts of heroism, big and small. Heroes, too, come in different shapes and sizes, forms and breeds, man and animals alike. Dolphins, seals, horses, cats and whales are just a few from the animal kingdom that display tremendous protective instincts that save man from all sorts of danger. But nothing beats “the man’s best friend”.
After displays of great courage and bravery during World War I, dogs have seen in a different light. They were thrust into the limelight unknowingly. Since then, dogs have been called all time heroes – recognized, rescued, trained and cared for by man. All kinds of awards were given to dogs to celebrate their heroism and saving prowess such as the “Dog Hero of the Year Award.”
The dogs carry on a long line of lifesavers. They have shown unthinkable acts of saving adults and children alike in grave danger like fire, drowning, road and home accidents, intruders and robbers, and even in a huge tragedy like 9/11. The images of heroic dogs finding possible survivors or even lost bodies under rubble and debris in ground zero crushed the hearts of many Americans.
These canine heroes come from all breeds, backgrounds and locations. Take note, they are not pedigreed. These dog heroes are not at all dominated by big dogs, though they are often used for the purpose of national security. Their breeds vary from the famous German Shepherd, Saint Bernard and Collies (remember Lassie?) to Poodle, Labrador, American Pit Bull Terrier, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Cocker Spaniel, Doberman, Pinscher, English Springer Spaniel, Golden Retriever, Great Dane, Newfoundland, Rottweiler, Shetland, Sheepdog, Terrier and Weimaraner.
During the Vietnam War, 4,000 dogs were recruited to assist and protect U.S. troops, thus preventing an estimate of 10,000 plus American casualties. At that time, they were considered “surplus armaments”. They were either euthanized or left to their fates in Vietnam. Now, books and documentaries preserved the memories of countless canines that aided in the protection of mankind.
Today, dog heroes play an even more critical role in the fight against terrorism. The ability of dogs to detect bombs is already proven since World War I. A German shepherd’s nose has 250 billion smelling cells to give it the ability to detect a target odor amidst all other odors.
Breeds do not guarantee a “dog hero status.” Like men, dogs need a rare set of attributes to stand out: intelligence, being calm even in the presence of loud noise, focus amidst distractions and a compulsive desire to play with a toy. After all, the game is to find the scent and get the toy.
Grooming Man’s Best friend
Grooming Man’s Best friend
Proper grooming for your dog does not only have aesthetic purposes but also adds to your pet’s holistic growth – physical and psychological. Since dog hair can interlace due to dirt and grime in the coat forming mats and tangles, they would need to be groomed to keep proper hygiene. Plus grooming generates more bonding time with your pet, creating a stronger relationship.
It is best to train your dog to be groomed at an early age. But, an untrained dog can still be taught to accept all the attention. Train your pet to get used to his body parts being handled and brushed. You need not go to a professional groomer, but if you don’t have the time or the interest to groom your dog, be sure to select a groomer that handles the animals gently.
Things to Remember in Grooming your Dog
Make a daily examination of your pet’s body parts. Look out for bumps, hot spots, inflammation, irritation, vegetative matter, and parasites like fleas and ticks in his coat. Get rid of fleas by using a fine-toothed comb while ticks can be tweezed off. Ears should be checked – droop ears are inclined to infection which can lead to permanent hearing loss. Examine your companion’s pads – dirt, grime, pebbles, chemicals can get caught that can infect his paws.
Brushing doesn’t only remove mats, it also takes away dead hair, thus eliminating animal odor. Tangles can also be very painful for your dog that may lead to skin inflammation. Grooming during shedding encourages growth of new coat, so brush especially after physical exercise.
Nails should be trimmed every month, especially if your dog has a hard time walking. Dental hygiene is maintained by using dog toothpaste and toothbrush with soft bristles twice a week. A damp cotton cloth is used to remove mucus from your dog’s eyes and a coarse rag is appropriate in cleaning your pet’s face.
When bathing your pet, make sure that you brush away dead hairs first to clear all the mats in his coat. Soak your pet in warm water. Apply a pet shampoo in small amounts. Target areas are the eyes, ears, rectum, toes and under the chin. Avoid getting soapy water in his eyes and ears. You also have an option to apply coat conditioner after bathing. Different breeds require varying bath frequency; consult the local pet grooming shop if you’re not sure how many times you should bath your dog.
It is recommended that a dog owner has his own home grooming kit. A good kit includes a grooming brush, clippers for dog toenails, combs with varying teeth (fine, medium coarse), dog shampoo, coat conditioner, and a coarse rag.
Proper grooming for your dog does not only have aesthetic purposes but also adds to your pet’s holistic growth – physical and psychological. Since dog hair can interlace due to dirt and grime in the coat forming mats and tangles, they would need to be groomed to keep proper hygiene. Plus grooming generates more bonding time with your pet, creating a stronger relationship.
It is best to train your dog to be groomed at an early age. But, an untrained dog can still be taught to accept all the attention. Train your pet to get used to his body parts being handled and brushed. You need not go to a professional groomer, but if you don’t have the time or the interest to groom your dog, be sure to select a groomer that handles the animals gently.
Things to Remember in Grooming your Dog
Make a daily examination of your pet’s body parts. Look out for bumps, hot spots, inflammation, irritation, vegetative matter, and parasites like fleas and ticks in his coat. Get rid of fleas by using a fine-toothed comb while ticks can be tweezed off. Ears should be checked – droop ears are inclined to infection which can lead to permanent hearing loss. Examine your companion’s pads – dirt, grime, pebbles, chemicals can get caught that can infect his paws.
Brushing doesn’t only remove mats, it also takes away dead hair, thus eliminating animal odor. Tangles can also be very painful for your dog that may lead to skin inflammation. Grooming during shedding encourages growth of new coat, so brush especially after physical exercise.
Nails should be trimmed every month, especially if your dog has a hard time walking. Dental hygiene is maintained by using dog toothpaste and toothbrush with soft bristles twice a week. A damp cotton cloth is used to remove mucus from your dog’s eyes and a coarse rag is appropriate in cleaning your pet’s face.
When bathing your pet, make sure that you brush away dead hairs first to clear all the mats in his coat. Soak your pet in warm water. Apply a pet shampoo in small amounts. Target areas are the eyes, ears, rectum, toes and under the chin. Avoid getting soapy water in his eyes and ears. You also have an option to apply coat conditioner after bathing. Different breeds require varying bath frequency; consult the local pet grooming shop if you’re not sure how many times you should bath your dog.
It is recommended that a dog owner has his own home grooming kit. A good kit includes a grooming brush, clippers for dog toenails, combs with varying teeth (fine, medium coarse), dog shampoo, coat conditioner, and a coarse rag.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Fighting Flea Infestation
How to fight fleas
The natural way:
• Vacuum your home frequently and seal vacuum bags before disposing.
• Wash the bedding of your dog weekly in warm soapy water. This is where fleas usually breed.
• Bathing your pet weekly with a mild dog shampoo prevents flea invasion.
• Use cedar shampoo for your dog, and put cedar oil in their sleeping mats. Cedar will repel fleas and other insects.
• Fleas are attracted to dry skin, so to avoid it, give your dog Linatone oil mixed with its food. Excessive shampooing should be avoided.
• A mixture of brewer’s yeast and garlic, available in powder or tablet form can be given in small doses to your pet. This creates a certain odor in pets, and fleas are surely to avoid them.
• Fresh or dried pennyroyal leaves is a natural flea repellent. Use this in carpets to avoid the abundance of fleas in the home. Do not use it if you have small children around, as this could be toxic.
• A mixture of 60 ml of lavender oil with 2.8 liters of rock salt can also be placed in areas where dogs usually come in contact with and this solution could also be used to wash your dog.
• Planting marigolds in the yard is helpful too, it repels certain types of bugs as well as fleas.
• Boiled lemon or orange peel in water can be used as a dip for dogs and can be used too to soak in dog bedding for a few hours, then washed with warm soapy water.
• Lukewarm water with little shampoo and detergent is a good way to prevent fleas. A dog’s body may be dipped into the solution for fifteen minutes and then rinsed. This only works if flea infestation is light.
The natural way of treating fleas is effective only if the level of flea infestation is average to very few. This method usually is recommended for prevention only.
Different commercially available products with chemical contents:
• Advantage. Active ingredient is imidacloprid. This is a flea poison, from Bayer. It is in a liquid form and applied to the skin, at the back of the dog, and works for about a month. This works by upsetting the nervous system of fleas when they come in contact with the liquid. This product is fast acting and is not absorbed into the internal organs and bloodstream of the dog.
Studies indicate that this product is highly toxic to fleas and other insects as well. A dog will be free from fleas in just a couple of days.
Ingredients are: imidacloprid -- a chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine integrated from the nitromethylene class of a compound. This joins the nicotinyl receptor sites of insects, thus upsetting normal nerve transmission which causes death.
A set of two vials costs 15-20 dollars.
• Frontline. This product is very similar to Advantage, but is not water soluble, so alcohol is needed to wash it off. This can safely be used in pups, dogs, cats and kittens.
Efficiency in repelling lasts up to four months.
Active ingredients include: Fipronil 5-amino -1- (2, 6-dichloro-4 [trifluoromethyl]phenyl) -4- (1,R,S)- (trifluoromethyl0sulfinyl) -1H-pryazole-3-carbonitrile 0.29% inert ingredients 99.71%.
Fipronil works as a nervous transmission interruptor, which causes quick death to fleas and ticks. It is proven to kills 96% of fleas for the first two hours and 100% within 24 hours. Ticks die sooner than they attach themselves to the host. Fipronil is from the new phenylpyrazole class.
Very effective and can be considered safe, so long as dogs are not allergic to fipronil.
• Knockout. Performs like Frontline and is as effective, but can only be used in dogs. Active ingredients: Pyriproxyfen: 21[1-methyl-2-(phenoxyphenoxy)ethyoxy] pyridine....0.05% cyclopropanecarboxylate 2.00% inert ingredients 97.95% Also has NYLAR, which is flea growth regulator.
• Biospot. This is for topical application and kills up to 75 percent of fleas, eggs, and ticks. It also is a good repellant of mosquitoes and works for about a month. Temporarily, at times, it turns white hair to yellow. This can not be used in cats and contains permethrins and IGR.
• Proban (cythioate) and Prospot (Fenthion). While not to be used in cats, they are widely used in dogs. This is absorbed by the bloodstream and fleas die due to the poison that is present in the blood. For it to work, it requires the bitting of fleas. There are certain conditions to be considered though. You are injecting a small dose of poison into your dog’s body and side effects are not known. Then this does not help if a dog has flea allergy, and can not risk to be bitten.
Generally fleas abound during the summer months, when it is their breeding season. These commercial products can greatly help in fighting heavy flea infestation and needed where severe invasion occurs. However, it is always best to consult with your veterinarian as the choice of flea control will greatly depend on your life style.
The natural way:
• Vacuum your home frequently and seal vacuum bags before disposing.
• Wash the bedding of your dog weekly in warm soapy water. This is where fleas usually breed.
• Bathing your pet weekly with a mild dog shampoo prevents flea invasion.
• Use cedar shampoo for your dog, and put cedar oil in their sleeping mats. Cedar will repel fleas and other insects.
• Fleas are attracted to dry skin, so to avoid it, give your dog Linatone oil mixed with its food. Excessive shampooing should be avoided.
• A mixture of brewer’s yeast and garlic, available in powder or tablet form can be given in small doses to your pet. This creates a certain odor in pets, and fleas are surely to avoid them.
• Fresh or dried pennyroyal leaves is a natural flea repellent. Use this in carpets to avoid the abundance of fleas in the home. Do not use it if you have small children around, as this could be toxic.
• A mixture of 60 ml of lavender oil with 2.8 liters of rock salt can also be placed in areas where dogs usually come in contact with and this solution could also be used to wash your dog.
• Planting marigolds in the yard is helpful too, it repels certain types of bugs as well as fleas.
• Boiled lemon or orange peel in water can be used as a dip for dogs and can be used too to soak in dog bedding for a few hours, then washed with warm soapy water.
• Lukewarm water with little shampoo and detergent is a good way to prevent fleas. A dog’s body may be dipped into the solution for fifteen minutes and then rinsed. This only works if flea infestation is light.
The natural way of treating fleas is effective only if the level of flea infestation is average to very few. This method usually is recommended for prevention only.
Different commercially available products with chemical contents:
• Advantage. Active ingredient is imidacloprid. This is a flea poison, from Bayer. It is in a liquid form and applied to the skin, at the back of the dog, and works for about a month. This works by upsetting the nervous system of fleas when they come in contact with the liquid. This product is fast acting and is not absorbed into the internal organs and bloodstream of the dog.
Studies indicate that this product is highly toxic to fleas and other insects as well. A dog will be free from fleas in just a couple of days.
Ingredients are: imidacloprid -- a chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine integrated from the nitromethylene class of a compound. This joins the nicotinyl receptor sites of insects, thus upsetting normal nerve transmission which causes death.
A set of two vials costs 15-20 dollars.
• Frontline. This product is very similar to Advantage, but is not water soluble, so alcohol is needed to wash it off. This can safely be used in pups, dogs, cats and kittens.
Efficiency in repelling lasts up to four months.
Active ingredients include: Fipronil 5-amino -1- (2, 6-dichloro-4 [trifluoromethyl]phenyl) -4- (1,R,S)- (trifluoromethyl0sulfinyl) -1H-pryazole-3-carbonitrile 0.29% inert ingredients 99.71%.
Fipronil works as a nervous transmission interruptor, which causes quick death to fleas and ticks. It is proven to kills 96% of fleas for the first two hours and 100% within 24 hours. Ticks die sooner than they attach themselves to the host. Fipronil is from the new phenylpyrazole class.
Very effective and can be considered safe, so long as dogs are not allergic to fipronil.
• Knockout. Performs like Frontline and is as effective, but can only be used in dogs. Active ingredients: Pyriproxyfen: 21[1-methyl-2-(phenoxyphenoxy)ethyoxy] pyridine....0.05% cyclopropanecarboxylate 2.00% inert ingredients 97.95% Also has NYLAR, which is flea growth regulator.
• Biospot. This is for topical application and kills up to 75 percent of fleas, eggs, and ticks. It also is a good repellant of mosquitoes and works for about a month. Temporarily, at times, it turns white hair to yellow. This can not be used in cats and contains permethrins and IGR.
• Proban (cythioate) and Prospot (Fenthion). While not to be used in cats, they are widely used in dogs. This is absorbed by the bloodstream and fleas die due to the poison that is present in the blood. For it to work, it requires the bitting of fleas. There are certain conditions to be considered though. You are injecting a small dose of poison into your dog’s body and side effects are not known. Then this does not help if a dog has flea allergy, and can not risk to be bitten.
Generally fleas abound during the summer months, when it is their breeding season. These commercial products can greatly help in fighting heavy flea infestation and needed where severe invasion occurs. However, it is always best to consult with your veterinarian as the choice of flea control will greatly depend on your life style.
Thursday, January 19, 2006
Feline's Flea and Diarrhea
HERBAL FLEA POWDER
1 part eucalyptus powder
1 part pennyroyal powder (use sage or rosemary for cats)
1 part fennel powder
1 part yellow dock powder
Combine all ingredients in a shaker top jar and shake to mix.
Apply to your pet's fur by brushing backward with your hand or comb and sprinkling the powder into the roots of the hairs. Concentrate on the neck, back, and belly. Use just enough to add a little odor to the hairs.
For severe flea infestations, treat daily; otherwise, use two or three times a week.
FELINE FLEA PROOFING
Add to the food for each adult cat:
1/2 level teaspoon brewer's yeast
1/4 level teaspoon garlic powder
FLEA REPELLENT SLEEP PILLOWS
2 parts sage or rosemary
1 part catnip
1 part chamomile
Herbs may be used cut or whole. Mix enough to stuff a 2-foot square pillow for a cat or a 3-foot square (or larger) pillow for a dog. Sew the pillowcase out of a tough, washable fabric such as denim.
DIARRHEA CURE
Rice, uncooked, 1/2 cup
Consommé, 1 can
Turkey leg, 1 large
Water, 2 cups
Boil the whole works until the meat falls off the bone. Allow to cool and cut the meat into very small pieces. Feed about two tablespoons per cat several times a day.
HEALTHY POWDER
2 cups nutritional (torula) yeast
1 cup lecithin granules
1/4 cup kelp powder
1/4 cup bonemeal (or 9,000 milligrams calcium or 5 teaspoons eggshell powder)
1,000 milligrams vitamin C (ground) or ¼ teaspoon sodium ascorbate (optional)
Mix all ingredients together in a 1-quart container and refrigerate. Add to each recipe. You may also add this mixture to commercial food as follows: 1 to 2 teaspoons per day for cats.
1 part eucalyptus powder
1 part pennyroyal powder (use sage or rosemary for cats)
1 part fennel powder
1 part yellow dock powder
Combine all ingredients in a shaker top jar and shake to mix.
Apply to your pet's fur by brushing backward with your hand or comb and sprinkling the powder into the roots of the hairs. Concentrate on the neck, back, and belly. Use just enough to add a little odor to the hairs.
For severe flea infestations, treat daily; otherwise, use two or three times a week.
FELINE FLEA PROOFING
Add to the food for each adult cat:
1/2 level teaspoon brewer's yeast
1/4 level teaspoon garlic powder
FLEA REPELLENT SLEEP PILLOWS
2 parts sage or rosemary
1 part catnip
1 part chamomile
Herbs may be used cut or whole. Mix enough to stuff a 2-foot square pillow for a cat or a 3-foot square (or larger) pillow for a dog. Sew the pillowcase out of a tough, washable fabric such as denim.
DIARRHEA CURE
Rice, uncooked, 1/2 cup
Consommé, 1 can
Turkey leg, 1 large
Water, 2 cups
Boil the whole works until the meat falls off the bone. Allow to cool and cut the meat into very small pieces. Feed about two tablespoons per cat several times a day.
HEALTHY POWDER
2 cups nutritional (torula) yeast
1 cup lecithin granules
1/4 cup kelp powder
1/4 cup bonemeal (or 9,000 milligrams calcium or 5 teaspoons eggshell powder)
1,000 milligrams vitamin C (ground) or ¼ teaspoon sodium ascorbate (optional)
Mix all ingredients together in a 1-quart container and refrigerate. Add to each recipe. You may also add this mixture to commercial food as follows: 1 to 2 teaspoons per day for cats.
Sunday, July 17, 2005
Pamper Your Cat
A Lot Of Food Recipes For Your Feline Friend
Pamper Your Cat shows readers how to prepare tasty and healthful treats and main meals for their cats. Also there are articles that related to other topic such as pet health, pet care, pet food, etc...
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Pamper Your Cat
Does Your Cat Match Your Sofa
Dog And Cat Days Of Summer
Getting New Pet 7 Tips
Keeping Your Cat Healthy
What Every Cat Lover Should Know About
Cat Fights How To Avoid Aggression
Curbing Your Cats Aggression
Health Problems In Cats
Does Your Pet Dog Suffer From
Essential Care Tips For Your Dog
Feline Heartworm Disease
Help Prevent Cat Hairballs
Dog Training Tips
Enjoyable Activities With Your Dog
Tips In Naming Your Puppies
Weight Problems In Dogs Is Your Dog
Are Vaccinations For Pets Really
Children And Dogs Good Combination
Dog Supplies Buying Guide
Dog Toys For Brain Teeth And Feet
Feline Heartworm Disease
How To Pet Proof Your Holidays
How To Stop Puppy Jumping Up
On Road With Your Dog
Potty Training Your Puppy
Rewards Of Training Your Dog
Seven Steps To Happier Pet
Training Your Dog To Sit
Trials Of Cats In Medieval Times
Basic Puppy Training
Best Dog Accessories
Best Dog Breed For You
Best Dog Breeders
Best Dog Tracking System
Best Selling Dog Books
Canine Hip Dysplasia
Canine Vaccinations Are Essential
Dog Diseases
Dogs Are Part Of Daily Life
Dogs Have Allergies Too
Feline Foods
Felines Flea And Diarrhea
Fighting Flea Infestation
Food For Your Cats
Foods For Felines
Get Your Dog Ready For Dog Shows
Guide To Your Dogs Diet
How Inspiring Dog Tales Can Be
How To Buy Dog From Breeder
How To Housebreak Your Puppy
How To Make Your Dog Obey You
How To Make Your Dog Win Races
Keeping Your Dog Healthy
Keeping Your Dog Healthy_14
More Foods For Felines
Need Little Help With Your Health Get_24
Obedience Training For Your Dog
Overview Of Different Breeds Of Dogs
Proper Diet For Your Dog
Signature Dog Toys
Taking Care Of Your Dogs Teeth And
Therapeutic Dogs
Tips Baking Soda Dry Shampoo
Tips For Buying Dog Food
Traveling With Your Dog
What Every Good Dog Breeder Will Tell
Adopting Dog
Assistance Dogs
Dog Behavior
Dog Bite
Dog Breeds
Dog Ear Infections
Dog Heroes
Dog Lovers Club
Dog Sports For Every Breed
Dog Training
Dogs Breeding
Food For Kitty
Four Things To Consider Before Buying
Gps For Pets Finding Fido Or Fluffy
Grooming Mans Best Friend
Guide To Traveling With Your Pet
Happy Puppy Owners Guide To
Help Prevent Cat Hairballs
Importance Of Breeds Of Dogs
More Foods For Cats
Pet Sitters Information On Hiring Or
Right Breeder
Should You Get Health Insurance For
Taming Shy Kittens
Training Your Cat To Use Toilet_24
What Dog Really Needs
Whelping Puppies
Who Takes Care Of Your Pets When Youre
Bribery And Cat Training
Bullmastiff
Cat Behavior Training Crash Course
Cats Are Smart
Grooming Your Pet Cat
Guide To Traveling With Your Pet
Pet Obesity
Removing Cat Urine Odor
Removing Pet Odors
Benefits Of Walking Your Cat
Caring For Your Cats Health
Cat Care While Training
Cat Litter Training
Cat Potty Training
Cat Toilet Training Tips
Cat Training Aids
Choose Litter Box For Your Cat
Clicker Training Cats
Tips On Responsible Cat Breeding
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