Cat Food #1 : CHEESE PLEASE
1/2 cup grated cheese
2 tbl plain yogurt or sour cream
A little oatmeal
2 tbl margarine or low-fat spread
Serves one
Mash all of the ingredients together, adding them in the order indicated above, and serve cold. No cooking is required for this dish. Some cats will not take to this dish as it is not meat based: others will love it.
Cat Food #2 : CHICKENS AND PASTA STEW
2 packages ground chicken (Or turkey)
2-3 small carrots, cooked
2-3 cups macaroni (Cooked)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Garlic
Boil the macaroni until tender. Cook up the chicken in a frying pan. Mix everything together in food processor. Add the oil and the garlic. Mix well.
Cat Food #3 : BEEF AND VEGGIE BROTH
1/2 cup raw trimmed beef
A few tablespoons of beef broth (Preferably not the canned or cubed variety)
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal
1 tablespoon dried barley grass powder (Find at a pet food store)
1 cooked minced veggie (Your cat's favorite - Carrots are often a favorite)
Cook raw trimmed beef in just enough broth to cover, over medium to low heat. When beef is cooked thru shred with fork and mix with the broth in which it was cooked. Add the minced veggie and the barley grass powder. Stir well. Last add the oatmeal to achieve the consistency that your cat likes. This is a good cat food recipe for indoor pets
Cat Food #4 : CHICKEN AND SARDINES
1 can sardines in olive oil
1/4 cup whole grain bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten
1/2 tsp brewer's yeast
2 cooked chicken drumsticks, bones removed
Drain the sardines, reserving the olive oil, and mash. Mix in the bread crumbs, egg and yeast to an even, gooey consistency. Coat the chicken drumsticks evenly in the mixture. Heat the reserved olive oil in a frying pan then add the coated drumsticks and fry, turning frequently, until brown. Remove from the heat, and cool before serving.
Cat Food #5 : CHICKEN SOUP
Combine 1 chicken liver, 1 giblet, 1 chicken heart, 1 chicken neck, 2 cups water and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
Cover and simmer until the giblet is tender.
Chop all the meat for dogs removing bones and mix with kibble; for cats, grind the meat in the blender.
Cat Food #6 : BETTER THAN GRASS SALAD
1 small carrot peeled and grated
1/4 cup peeled and grated zucchini
1/2 cup chopped alfalfa sprouts
1 tsp. finely chopped parsley
1/8 cup chicken stock
1/4 tsp dried or fresh catnip
Combine veggies in a medium bowl. Add chicken stock and toss. Sprinkle with catnip and serve at room temperature.
Store left overs in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Cat Food #7 : CRISPY TROUT DINNER
1 egg yolk
1 small trout fillet
3 tbl oatmeal
1 tbl vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Beat the egg, dip the fish in it, and then coat it with oatmeal. Put the oil in a small baking pan and lay the fillet in it, turning it over once or twice. Bake for 15 minutes, turn over and bake for 15 minutes more. Remove the fish to a dish, allow to cool. Cut into bite-sized pieces.
Serving suggestion: if it looks a little dry, add a dash of cream.
Cat Food #8 : CHICKEN CHEESEBURGER
2 oz finely ground beef
2 oz finely ground chicken
1 tbl canned thick chicken soup
2 oz whole grain bread crumbs or oatmeal
1 baby carrot, cooked until soft
1 egg
1/2 cup grated cheese
Mash the meat and chicken with the soup then add the bread crumbs or oatmeal, mushy carrot and egg. Make into two small burgers and broil (leaving much rarer than you would for yourself). Sprinkle with grated cheese and broil again until the cheese is melted. Allow to cool until warm to the touch, and serve.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Persian Cat
Picking the Perfect Persian Cat
The exotic and majestic appearance of the Persian cat captures the attention of cat lovers everywhere, making it one of the most desirable breeds of cats today. Their dense and lush long-haired coat, short legs and broad head with round eyes and flat muzzle faces are distinct physical traits that make them easily identifiable to just about everyone.
According to the Cat Fanciers' Association, there are seven main categories of Persians. You can visit their web site for specific information on each group and view pictures.
Within these categories, there are many colors and variations. The many different kinds of Persians that are available permit anyone to pick the perfect companion. However, before running out and snatching up the first Persian you see, there are several factors for purchasing a Persian you ought to consider.
First, give some thought on how this new addition will get along with any pets you already have. Then assess if you are able to take the time to groom this cat properly everyday. The next issue might be the hardest thing to decide. That is narrowing down which of the seven types of Persians you like the most. However, once that is resolved, you could even settle on the color you would prefer. After that, you may have a partiality for the specific sex of your pet. A significant issue to consider is if you intend on entering your cat in show competitions or if you are just looking for a buddy. A show quality Persian will generally cost more.
Depending on your personality and time constraints, do you want and are you able to raise a kitten? Then you will want to locate a reputable breeder. This is an important matter because the better the breeder, the better your chance of acquiring a strong and healthy kitten. See if the kitten appears to be well taken care of and is being raised in clean surroundings. Has a veterinary done a complete checkup for health problems and is it up-to-date with shots? Is the breeder aware of any genetic conditions that may run in this kitten's pedigree lineage? Remember to obtain a health contract or guarantee from the breeder. A honest breeder will have no problem supplying you with one. Additionally, you will need the vaccination certificate. If the kitten is registered or you are planning to register it, you will need these papers from the breeder too.
Perhaps you are leaning toward an older cat. Adopting from a shelter or rescue could be a rewarding experience, not to mention saving a life. Just realize that this cat might have been abandoned due to a major health or personality problem. Ask a lot of questions and spend as much time with the cat as you can to determine if it will be a good pet for you.
No matter what cat you ultimately select, by doing your homework and being honest with yourself on your particular personality and situation, picking the perfect Persian can be a fun experience that later grows into a long loving relationship.
The exotic and majestic appearance of the Persian cat captures the attention of cat lovers everywhere, making it one of the most desirable breeds of cats today. Their dense and lush long-haired coat, short legs and broad head with round eyes and flat muzzle faces are distinct physical traits that make them easily identifiable to just about everyone.
According to the Cat Fanciers' Association, there are seven main categories of Persians. You can visit their web site for specific information on each group and view pictures.
1. Himalayans
2. Silver and Golden
3. Solid Colors
4. Calico and Bicolor
5. Tabby
6. Smoke and Shaded
7. Particolor
Within these categories, there are many colors and variations. The many different kinds of Persians that are available permit anyone to pick the perfect companion. However, before running out and snatching up the first Persian you see, there are several factors for purchasing a Persian you ought to consider.
First, give some thought on how this new addition will get along with any pets you already have. Then assess if you are able to take the time to groom this cat properly everyday. The next issue might be the hardest thing to decide. That is narrowing down which of the seven types of Persians you like the most. However, once that is resolved, you could even settle on the color you would prefer. After that, you may have a partiality for the specific sex of your pet. A significant issue to consider is if you intend on entering your cat in show competitions or if you are just looking for a buddy. A show quality Persian will generally cost more.
Depending on your personality and time constraints, do you want and are you able to raise a kitten? Then you will want to locate a reputable breeder. This is an important matter because the better the breeder, the better your chance of acquiring a strong and healthy kitten. See if the kitten appears to be well taken care of and is being raised in clean surroundings. Has a veterinary done a complete checkup for health problems and is it up-to-date with shots? Is the breeder aware of any genetic conditions that may run in this kitten's pedigree lineage? Remember to obtain a health contract or guarantee from the breeder. A honest breeder will have no problem supplying you with one. Additionally, you will need the vaccination certificate. If the kitten is registered or you are planning to register it, you will need these papers from the breeder too.
Perhaps you are leaning toward an older cat. Adopting from a shelter or rescue could be a rewarding experience, not to mention saving a life. Just realize that this cat might have been abandoned due to a major health or personality problem. Ask a lot of questions and spend as much time with the cat as you can to determine if it will be a good pet for you.
No matter what cat you ultimately select, by doing your homework and being honest with yourself on your particular personality and situation, picking the perfect Persian can be a fun experience that later grows into a long loving relationship.
5 Tips for Puppy-Proofing Your Home
Ah, puppies...so adorable, filled with boundless energy and curious about any-and-everything around them. That's why taking steps to puppy-proof your home will go a long way in protecting these little ones from harm. And on the flip side, your precautions will also safeguard your belongings from possible damage.
Your first task is to get a puppy's point of view. How? By going from room to room, getting down on your hands and knees and taking a good look at what your puppy might be enticed by. Remember, they are new to the world and like toddlers, puppies are inclined to explore their surroundings by putting things in their mouths and poking around in nooks and crannies.
Cabinets
Be mindful of cleaning supplies and personal care items that are stored in low storage areas like kitchen and under-sink bathroom cabinets. Needless to say, the ingredients in these products are extremely harmful and can even cause death. If the cabinet doors can be easily pried open, think about storing these items in some other place. Another option is to purchase plastic child-proof cabinet locks that can be temporarily attached to the handles or knobs. These safety locks can usually be found online or in local pet supply (or baby) stores.
Plants
Household plants are attractive to most puppies but they are toxic. Ingesting a bite or two can cause nausea, vomiting and in some cases death. So re-position your plants so that they are out of reach.
Small Objects Around the House
Be alert to small items around the house that can be swallowed or cause choking such as coins, jewelry, sewing supplies, batteries, medication and miniature knick-knacks left on low surfaces. And don't forget to block access to trash receptacles in the kitchen, your home office and even the bathroom. Now speaking of bathrooms...
Electrical Cords
How tantalizing is an electrical cord especially when it's looping down from a table or desk? "I can jump at it, pull on it, wrestle with it and even gnaw on it," Puppy thinks to himself. Well, the dangers are obvious: a falling lamp or electrocution can cause serious injury or worse. Wrap up loose hanging electrical cords or at least block access to them. And for cords that need to run across the floor, use rubber or plastic cord/cable runners that can be purchased at an office supply outlet or home improvement store.
Toilet (Or, "Beyond the Great Rim")
To an adventurous puppy, the challenge of climbing up, up and over the rim of your toilet is a tail-wagging delight. Unfortunately, falling head first into this big, slippery bowl of water is not so delightful especially for a smaller-sized pup. Simple solution: make it a house rule to keep the bathroom door closed at all times.
Puppy-proofing your home may seem like a hassle but providing the safest environment possible is a necessity. After all, your lovable, four-legged bundle of joy is worth it.
Your first task is to get a puppy's point of view. How? By going from room to room, getting down on your hands and knees and taking a good look at what your puppy might be enticed by. Remember, they are new to the world and like toddlers, puppies are inclined to explore their surroundings by putting things in their mouths and poking around in nooks and crannies.
Cabinets
Be mindful of cleaning supplies and personal care items that are stored in low storage areas like kitchen and under-sink bathroom cabinets. Needless to say, the ingredients in these products are extremely harmful and can even cause death. If the cabinet doors can be easily pried open, think about storing these items in some other place. Another option is to purchase plastic child-proof cabinet locks that can be temporarily attached to the handles or knobs. These safety locks can usually be found online or in local pet supply (or baby) stores.
Plants
Household plants are attractive to most puppies but they are toxic. Ingesting a bite or two can cause nausea, vomiting and in some cases death. So re-position your plants so that they are out of reach.
Small Objects Around the House
Be alert to small items around the house that can be swallowed or cause choking such as coins, jewelry, sewing supplies, batteries, medication and miniature knick-knacks left on low surfaces. And don't forget to block access to trash receptacles in the kitchen, your home office and even the bathroom. Now speaking of bathrooms...
Electrical Cords
How tantalizing is an electrical cord especially when it's looping down from a table or desk? "I can jump at it, pull on it, wrestle with it and even gnaw on it," Puppy thinks to himself. Well, the dangers are obvious: a falling lamp or electrocution can cause serious injury or worse. Wrap up loose hanging electrical cords or at least block access to them. And for cords that need to run across the floor, use rubber or plastic cord/cable runners that can be purchased at an office supply outlet or home improvement store.
Toilet (Or, "Beyond the Great Rim")
To an adventurous puppy, the challenge of climbing up, up and over the rim of your toilet is a tail-wagging delight. Unfortunately, falling head first into this big, slippery bowl of water is not so delightful especially for a smaller-sized pup. Simple solution: make it a house rule to keep the bathroom door closed at all times.
Puppy-proofing your home may seem like a hassle but providing the safest environment possible is a necessity. After all, your lovable, four-legged bundle of joy is worth it.
Do You Have A Fat Pet?
People aren't the only ones who have a problem with weight control. Many of our pets, almost 25 per cent, are overweight, with many of these medically considered as obese. Why is this happening? Are our pets also becoming victims of the electronic age?
As we become more prone to using short-cuts in every day life; remote controls, microwaves, dishwashers, etc ... one would assume that we would have more time for the simple pleasures in life, such as - walking the dog. But no, that does not appear to be the case.
Even though we are managing to do these tasks in a much quicker time frame, we are just as quickly finding new things to fill the extra time. Yes, the advances in technology have provided faster ways of doing things but technology has also created many more things to do. We now spend a lot of time indoors, especially in front of a monitor; whether it be a computer monitor or a television monitor, many hours are spent staring at a screen.
We seem to no longer find enjoyment in many aspects of our lives as we are always reaching for that higher level; for more money, for a better job, for a more prestigious lifestyle. And in the process we have also spent less time with our pets, which has resulted in this increase in pet obesity. As many people down-size their homes by moving closer to city areas, mostly into townhouses and apartments, they leave less room in the new backyard for their pets, if they even have a backyard at all.
Being overweight can drastically decrease the life span of your pet, making your overweight pet into a very unhealthy pet, and ultimately an unhappy one as well. Obesity can lead to many different diseases, including; diabetes, arthritis, heart complications, endocrinal diseases and bad joints.
As we feed our pets more convenient, over-processed pet foods and spend less time with them exercising, we actually put their lives at risk, without even realizing it. Some pet owners may even over-feed their pets to try to compensate for their lack of involvement in their pet's lives.
Take your pet to your local veterinarian if you suspect that it may be overweight. They will be able to tell you if your pet is not getting enough exercise or is being feed the wrong type or amount of food.
Lastly, take some time out of your busy schedule and spend it with your pet, it will love you for it. Remember, a pet is a friend for life, so look after it.
As we become more prone to using short-cuts in every day life; remote controls, microwaves, dishwashers, etc ... one would assume that we would have more time for the simple pleasures in life, such as - walking the dog. But no, that does not appear to be the case.
Even though we are managing to do these tasks in a much quicker time frame, we are just as quickly finding new things to fill the extra time. Yes, the advances in technology have provided faster ways of doing things but technology has also created many more things to do. We now spend a lot of time indoors, especially in front of a monitor; whether it be a computer monitor or a television monitor, many hours are spent staring at a screen.
We seem to no longer find enjoyment in many aspects of our lives as we are always reaching for that higher level; for more money, for a better job, for a more prestigious lifestyle. And in the process we have also spent less time with our pets, which has resulted in this increase in pet obesity. As many people down-size their homes by moving closer to city areas, mostly into townhouses and apartments, they leave less room in the new backyard for their pets, if they even have a backyard at all.
Being overweight can drastically decrease the life span of your pet, making your overweight pet into a very unhealthy pet, and ultimately an unhappy one as well. Obesity can lead to many different diseases, including; diabetes, arthritis, heart complications, endocrinal diseases and bad joints.
As we feed our pets more convenient, over-processed pet foods and spend less time with them exercising, we actually put their lives at risk, without even realizing it. Some pet owners may even over-feed their pets to try to compensate for their lack of involvement in their pet's lives.
Take your pet to your local veterinarian if you suspect that it may be overweight. They will be able to tell you if your pet is not getting enough exercise or is being feed the wrong type or amount of food.
Lastly, take some time out of your busy schedule and spend it with your pet, it will love you for it. Remember, a pet is a friend for life, so look after it.
Monday, August 28, 2006
Chillin' Out: Keeping Your Dog Cool in Hot Weather
Sunny summer days seem to incite all sorts of fun activities with your dog: from playing fetch in the park to frisbee on the beach. Unfortunately, as temperatures soar, the hot weather also brings with it some very specific hazards such as sunburn, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Good news, these threats to your pooch are preventable.
Protecting Your Dog from Sunburn
Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun, especially the nose, tips of the ears and around the lip area. Commonsense dictates that you keep your dog in the shade during the hours when the sun's rays are most intense - usually between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. However, if you need to be outside during these times, it's okay to apply sun-block to your dog's nose and the exposed skin on the ears. It's a little risky to apply sun-block around the lips so instead just keep a close watch and make sure that the area doesn't get too pink. If you notice that any portion of your dog's skin is reddened or blistered, contact your veterinarian right away.
Protecting Your Dog from Heat Exhaustion or Heat Stroke
Leaving a dog in a parked car during summer weather is the leading cause of heat stroke. Dogs can also suffer heat exhaustion or heat stroke if they exercise too heavily on a hot, humid day or, if they live outdoors and don't have shelter from the sun. Dogs are also susceptible if they are overweight or suffer from lung or heart ailments. Older dogs are less tolerant of heat and may succumb to heat strokes more readily than younger dogs.
A few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke:
Don't take your dog with you on errands if you need to leave her in the car. However, if you're traveling with your dog and must make a stop, even for the shortest period of time, consider leaving the air conditioner on.
If you're accustomed to taking your dog with you when power-walking, jogging or cycling, don't push her on exceptionally hot days. If she falls behind, let her take a break.
For dogs who live outside, make sure to provide "all-day shade" such as a ventilated doghouse, large beach umbrella or overhang that will remain shaded even when the sun shifts throughout the day.
Keep older dogs and those with lung or heart conditions inside your home on hot days. If you don't have air conditioning, keep a fan running.
Avoid any situations that force your dog to stand on sun-baked surfaces such as cement sidewalks, a truck bed or beach sand. The extreme heat can cause blisters on her pads. If you simply must walk your dog in the heat of the day, tread on grassy areas as much as possible.
Water, Water, Water!
And last but not least...like you, your dog needs to hydrate frequently so be sure to provide unlimited access to cool, clean refreshing drinking water.
Protecting Your Dog from Sunburn
Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun, especially the nose, tips of the ears and around the lip area. Commonsense dictates that you keep your dog in the shade during the hours when the sun's rays are most intense - usually between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. However, if you need to be outside during these times, it's okay to apply sun-block to your dog's nose and the exposed skin on the ears. It's a little risky to apply sun-block around the lips so instead just keep a close watch and make sure that the area doesn't get too pink. If you notice that any portion of your dog's skin is reddened or blistered, contact your veterinarian right away.
Protecting Your Dog from Heat Exhaustion or Heat Stroke
Leaving a dog in a parked car during summer weather is the leading cause of heat stroke. Dogs can also suffer heat exhaustion or heat stroke if they exercise too heavily on a hot, humid day or, if they live outdoors and don't have shelter from the sun. Dogs are also susceptible if they are overweight or suffer from lung or heart ailments. Older dogs are less tolerant of heat and may succumb to heat strokes more readily than younger dogs.
A few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke:
Don't take your dog with you on errands if you need to leave her in the car. However, if you're traveling with your dog and must make a stop, even for the shortest period of time, consider leaving the air conditioner on.
If you're accustomed to taking your dog with you when power-walking, jogging or cycling, don't push her on exceptionally hot days. If she falls behind, let her take a break.
For dogs who live outside, make sure to provide "all-day shade" such as a ventilated doghouse, large beach umbrella or overhang that will remain shaded even when the sun shifts throughout the day.
Keep older dogs and those with lung or heart conditions inside your home on hot days. If you don't have air conditioning, keep a fan running.
Avoid any situations that force your dog to stand on sun-baked surfaces such as cement sidewalks, a truck bed or beach sand. The extreme heat can cause blisters on her pads. If you simply must walk your dog in the heat of the day, tread on grassy areas as much as possible.
Water, Water, Water!
And last but not least...like you, your dog needs to hydrate frequently so be sure to provide unlimited access to cool, clean refreshing drinking water.
Sunday, May 28, 2006
Potty Training for Cats
Initially, cat toilet trainers should know that cats learn one trick at a time. Changes are made after a first trick is mastered. A cats' motto: "Slowly but surely."
The capacity of cats to learn differ and so are expectations, control them to avoid disappointment.
Consider the kind of cat to be potty trained. There are pampered, indoor, and spoiled cats. These types are the ones can be toilet trained. It is vital to maintain a house that does not smell like there is a cat living in it.
Follow these steps on how to effectively toilet train cats:
1. Start by placing the cat's litter box near the bathroom door. He should know the new location and uses the litter box as usual.
2. After about a week, put something underneath the potty trainer to elevate it. It could be a bunch of old newspapers, cardboard boxes, or floor mats.
3. Raise the litter box an inch higher every other day until it reaches the level of the toilet seat.
4. At the start of the training, the cat just steps onto the litter box as usual until it slowly jumps up and down from it.
5. Lift the toilet lid up in order for the cat to learn how to tromp with only the seat to step on.
6. Next, move the potty trainer above the toilet seat. Leave it this way for a week or two.
7. The most exciting part: remove the litter box from the toilet bowl but put down the metal bowl inside. Put a few litters for cat's recognition of purpose.
8. Once the cat is used to using the toilet bowl, tutor him on how to squat the right way and that is holding the legs for the correct posture as often as possible until mastered. If the cat has his all fours on the toilet seat, begin by holding the two legs in front.
9. As soon as he knows how to squat properly, lift the hinds out. Assist the cat as he learns how to balance in that position.
10. Start removing the litter from the metal bowl. Now put water at the bottom and increase the contents everyday.
11. Once the feline is already comfortable with the water in the metal bowl, take it all off the toilet bowl.
Cat toilet training is a slow process. Time and effort are invested to obtain a kitty litter free house. Not only does an owner get rid of the ghastly chore of cleaning the litter but get more time to enjoy the cat’s company.
The capacity of cats to learn differ and so are expectations, control them to avoid disappointment.
Consider the kind of cat to be potty trained. There are pampered, indoor, and spoiled cats. These types are the ones can be toilet trained. It is vital to maintain a house that does not smell like there is a cat living in it.
Follow these steps on how to effectively toilet train cats:
1. Start by placing the cat's litter box near the bathroom door. He should know the new location and uses the litter box as usual.
2. After about a week, put something underneath the potty trainer to elevate it. It could be a bunch of old newspapers, cardboard boxes, or floor mats.
3. Raise the litter box an inch higher every other day until it reaches the level of the toilet seat.
4. At the start of the training, the cat just steps onto the litter box as usual until it slowly jumps up and down from it.
5. Lift the toilet lid up in order for the cat to learn how to tromp with only the seat to step on.
6. Next, move the potty trainer above the toilet seat. Leave it this way for a week or two.
7. The most exciting part: remove the litter box from the toilet bowl but put down the metal bowl inside. Put a few litters for cat's recognition of purpose.
8. Once the cat is used to using the toilet bowl, tutor him on how to squat the right way and that is holding the legs for the correct posture as often as possible until mastered. If the cat has his all fours on the toilet seat, begin by holding the two legs in front.
9. As soon as he knows how to squat properly, lift the hinds out. Assist the cat as he learns how to balance in that position.
10. Start removing the litter from the metal bowl. Now put water at the bottom and increase the contents everyday.
11. Once the feline is already comfortable with the water in the metal bowl, take it all off the toilet bowl.
Cat toilet training is a slow process. Time and effort are invested to obtain a kitty litter free house. Not only does an owner get rid of the ghastly chore of cleaning the litter but get more time to enjoy the cat’s company.
Tips on Training Cats for Harness
Cats, like children, have to be harness trained with persistence and concern. Hard treatment and physical stress can only induce fear in cats.
Starting at age six months, a cat can start to undergo the training. Confine the cat in order to diminish its need to wander. It is very vital that the right harness is purchased and used since a cat can easily struggle and free itself from the leash if a puny one is used. The harness should be of sturdy yet of comfortable quality, one that is specially made for cats.
The H shaped harness made of nylon material which is light, although it has buckles for the neck and the cat’s tummy, is a sure buy. Make sure that there is a metal ring for the cat’s I.D., which is located near the backside of the cat. The cat size can be measured by using a tape measure for the neck and tummy.
The harness can be placed a little firmer after about five days. It can then be adjusted to a two-inch width off the neck and the cat’s tummy. Leave the harness on for five to ten minutes each day and do this for two weeks. Keep in mind that cats are more jumpy than dogs so they really need more care and guarantee of a no hard treatment.
Use a walking collar with an L shaped fabric that hugs the cat’s body. Choose a jacket that is breathable and provides enough aeration for the cat’s comfort. A 5/8-inch wide nylon harness that has three buckles is used for effortless fitting and strapping. Its collar should be one that can be adjusted from 9-12 inches to prevent suffocation.
Have the cat wear the leash while wandering inside the household for twenty to thirty minutes a day for a week. However, never let the cat out of sight as they may be prone to getting snarled in chairs, tables, etc, and this would frighten him. Once the cat has gotten used to moving around with the harness on, then it can be held on to and the cat is ready for a walk in the park. Felines will eventually realize that there are corresponding limitations attached to being leashed. Position the strap with the ID tag and leash where the cat can snuffle, touch and have fun with it.
Being consistent and patient with the routine is the best key to accomplishment. Cats love routine and habits, following a sequence can make them expect what is next, thus, preventing any straying and disagreement. Once the cat is used to the harness, he’ll never even notice its there at all in the future.
Starting at age six months, a cat can start to undergo the training. Confine the cat in order to diminish its need to wander. It is very vital that the right harness is purchased and used since a cat can easily struggle and free itself from the leash if a puny one is used. The harness should be of sturdy yet of comfortable quality, one that is specially made for cats.
The H shaped harness made of nylon material which is light, although it has buckles for the neck and the cat’s tummy, is a sure buy. Make sure that there is a metal ring for the cat’s I.D., which is located near the backside of the cat. The cat size can be measured by using a tape measure for the neck and tummy.
The harness can be placed a little firmer after about five days. It can then be adjusted to a two-inch width off the neck and the cat’s tummy. Leave the harness on for five to ten minutes each day and do this for two weeks. Keep in mind that cats are more jumpy than dogs so they really need more care and guarantee of a no hard treatment.
Use a walking collar with an L shaped fabric that hugs the cat’s body. Choose a jacket that is breathable and provides enough aeration for the cat’s comfort. A 5/8-inch wide nylon harness that has three buckles is used for effortless fitting and strapping. Its collar should be one that can be adjusted from 9-12 inches to prevent suffocation.
Have the cat wear the leash while wandering inside the household for twenty to thirty minutes a day for a week. However, never let the cat out of sight as they may be prone to getting snarled in chairs, tables, etc, and this would frighten him. Once the cat has gotten used to moving around with the harness on, then it can be held on to and the cat is ready for a walk in the park. Felines will eventually realize that there are corresponding limitations attached to being leashed. Position the strap with the ID tag and leash where the cat can snuffle, touch and have fun with it.
Being consistent and patient with the routine is the best key to accomplishment. Cats love routine and habits, following a sequence can make them expect what is next, thus, preventing any straying and disagreement. Once the cat is used to the harness, he’ll never even notice its there at all in the future.
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