Just like humans, dogs can get cavities if their teeth are not properly taken care of. Cavities are not as common in dogs as they are in humans; however there are some things that can increase the likelihood of your dog developing tooth problems. If you live in an area with hard water, it is more likely that your dog's teeth will develop tartar deposits. Additionally, tooth problems are more likely if your dog eats mostly soft foods, because these leave debris in gum pockets at the base of the teeth, leading to infections. These not only cause problems for your dog's teeth - studies show that a whopping 98% of cases of bad breath in dogs are caused by periodontal disease, which is the result of tartar build-up and gum infections.
The best way of preventing these problems is with regular brushing of your dog's teeth. Even if you have a great relationship with your dog, staring into its mouth and seeing rows of shining, sharp dogteeth can be intimidating. But by gradually getting your dog used to the idea of having you handling his mouth, you'll be able to clean his teeth and take care of his mouth without too many problems.
If you have a young dog, it is much easier to get started. Even if your dog is a few years old you can still get him used to the idea, but you may find that it takes a bit longer before your dog is willing to let you brush his teeth. To get your dog used to having his mouth handled, start by lifting his lips and looking at his teeth - do this two or three times a week, and each time, give him a small treat after you have finished. This will help both you and your dog relax when you are handling his mouth, and your dog will be more comfortable with the process when he knows there will be a treat when it's over.
Once your dog is used to having his mouth handled, it's time to start brushing. There are a few simple items you will need to brush your dog's teeth, which you can obtain from a pet store or from your veterinarian. You'll need a dog tooth brush (a wash cloth or gauze pad wrapped around your finger also works well), and tooth paste which has been formulated for animal use. Human toothpaste should not be used for brushing dogteeth, because dogs cannot spit, and human toothpaste is not safe to swallow in large quantities. Your dog will most likely swallow whatever you use to clean his teeth, so it is important to buy toothpaste that has been formulated specifically for dogs. In addition, dogtooth pastes come in several different flavors, so if you can find a flavor your dog likes, it will be that much easier to brush his teeth.
Once you have the right tools, brushing dog teeth is pretty similar to brushing your own. If you have a large dog, the easiest position is on the floor, with your dog in front of you. With smaller breeds or puppies, you can hold the dog in your lap. To start brushing, lift your dog's upper lip and brush the teeth in a circular motion, making sure to brush at the base of each tooth where it meets the gum line. Also make sure to brush the back molars, because these teeth are more likely than the front teeth to develop problems. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, do only one or two teeth the first few times. As he becomes more comfortable with brushing, you can brush more teeth in each session. Always give your dog a small treat after each session.
Brushing should be done twice a week. If your dog's teeth have a lot of tartar build-up they'll need to be cleaned by your vet - this is a fairly quick procedure but it does require anesthesia. In addition to regular brushing, feeding your dog dry dog food or hard biscuits every day is the best way of preventing tartar build-up. Soft foods and meat should be given as treat foods only. As well as this, provide your dog with bones or hard toys to chew on - this will help keep their teeth and gums in good condition and it will also reduce the risk of your dog chewing on furniture or destroying your property. If you give your dog bones, do not cook them. Cooked bones can splinter, and these splinters can cause your dog to choke, or if swallowed they can perforate the bowel. Choose a bone based on the size of your dog - make sure you get a large bone if your dog is a large breed, so that there is no possibility of swallowing it.
With a little care and attention, you can help keep your dog's teeth in tip-top condition for years to come.
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Friday, March 23, 2007
Siamese Cat
A Siamese Cat Makes a Purr-fect Pet
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple-head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedge-head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple-head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedge-head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
Monday, March 12, 2007
A Siamese Cat Makes a Purr-fect Pet
For hundreds of years the Siamese cat has been in existence, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they stem from the area of Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendents of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats were transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Applehead type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedgehead Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Applehead type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.
The second variety is the Modern or Wedgehead Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.
In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as, kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.
Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern. Which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Besides these basic colors, there are many variations. They include an assortment of other color points, torties, lynxes and albinos.
Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent being a social animal that is very loyal and loving to their people. They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for which is their ability to communicate vocally that at times can be considerably loud. In fact, it can sound as if the cat is hurt and in pain.
It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves. However, it certainly will appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its calm temperament is perfect for seniors making it a terrific all-around family pet.
Thursday, March 8, 2007
A Method of Bathing Your Dog
Some dogs like the Poodle can have a lot of their thick coat clipped before a bath. However, clipping dirty hair puts more wear on clipper blades. You will need to use lubricating spray and oil on clipper blades to keep them in top condition. If you clip the thick hair of some dog breeds before bathing you will cut down washing and drying time by about half. You will use less electricity, less time and less stress for the dog.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
Essential equipment for bath time is of course a high quality shampoo that lathers quickly and rinses out quickly. Another essential for the bath time is a long, secure rubber mat to prevent the dog from slipping. You definitely need a decent hose spray to distribute the water evenly throughout your dog's coat.
Never leave your dog unattended on a grooming table or in the bathtub.
Wet the dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Lift long hair to be certain you get down to the roots. Be sure the water drains away as it runs off the dog. You do not want your dog standing in dirty water. Temperature of water should be warm, never hot or cold. Put some cotton in the dog's ears to prevent water getting into them. Water in the ears from bathing can cause ear infections.
Start with the head and wet down the neck, along the back and down the left side including the legs. Repeat on the right side. Avoid turning the dog at this stage. Turning the dog at this stage will encourage the dog to jump out. Wet the tail last.
If the dog is sensitive about having its head wet, start with the tail and work up the body, wetting the head last.
Work the shampoo through the coat with your hands. To help distribute the shampoo and prevent it from affecting the skin, I recommend diluting your shampoo with a little water before applying.
Work the shampoo into the coat thoroughly. Do not overlook the area underneath the chest and stomach, the anal area and the dog's feet (especially on the bottom of the feet). Be sure the shampoo gets down to the skin and is well lathered. Add water if needed.
Always use a tearless shampoo for the head and face. You still need to be careful not to get shampoo in the dog's eyes. Rinse immediately if the shampoo gets into the dog's eyes. Do not put shampoo in the dog's ears. I like to use Betadine Scrub (you can get this from your vet) inside the ears each bath. Just pour a little straight from the bottle into the dog’s ears each bath. This helps to avoid yeast and fungus ear infections. Keep the hair pulled out of your dog's ears.
Rinse off the shampoo and use a second application if required. If your dog's coat is clean - it will "squeak" as human hair does. Clean your dog's coat until you hear the "squeak." Rinsing should be very thorough. Any shampoo left in the coat can cause intense itching. If your dog has very sensitive skin, use a very mild, natural-ingredient shampoo. If you notice itching right after your dog's bath, discontinue that brand of shampoo and try another brand.
You can use a hound glove when in the bath to remove dead and molting hair from a short-coated dog.
When you are finished rinsing your dog's coat, squeeze out the excess moisture with cotton towels or super absorbent towels to cut down on drying time.
Most breeds of dogs need to be blow dried after a bath. Use a low temperature on your hair dryer. Be careful not to have the air blow directly onto the skin. Blow the hair away from the skin, but do not blow the skin itself. Most dogs hate the blower on their faces. If you keep your blow dryer turned on low they do not object so much.
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