Friday, February 24, 2006

Training Your Cat To Use The Toilet

Training Your Cat To Use The Toilet
    
Cats are wonderful pets but cleaning the litter box can be a real drag. But what if you could train kitty to use the toilet? Instead of dealing with messy, smelly litter, you could eliminate your cats elimination with just one flush!

When training your cat to use the toilet, it's best if you have two toilets in the house. Using one just for the cat and one for yourself during the training period will make things much more convenient although you can train your cat with only 1 toilet.

For toilet training your cat you will need an aluminum tray that fits into the toilet as well as an aluminum tray as a replacement for his litter box. The idea is to get him used to the aluminum tray in the same spot his box is usually in and then the tray in the toilet won't seem so foreign.

Keep the litter box in it's original spot but replace the box with the aluminum tray instead. Use the same litter and keep everything else the same.

Gradually move the litter box closer to the toilet. Don't move it too far each time and make sure your cat knows where it is by taking her over to it and scratching her paws in it. If your cat stops using the box, you are probably going to fast for her so slow down. Training a cat to use a litter box is a process that takes a long time so patience is key.

Once the cat is using the litter box next to the toilet, raise it an inch off the floor. make sure you use something that will keep the box stable and where the box will not slide off. Gradually, raise the box an inch higher until it is level with the toilet. As it gets higher the cat will have to jump up into it so it is critical that the box is stable, if it tips over this will scare your cat and she might not want to use it again.

At this point, you should have the tray ready in the toilet. You can use a cooking tray that is wide enough to fit the toilet. Put the tray in between that seat ring and the toilet base - make sure this holds it in place. Put some of the litter the cat is used to (make sure you use flushable litter) in the tray.

Leave the litter box level with the tray in the toilet for a couple of weeks, gradually taking away the litter in the box. Eventually, the cat should just jump up and use the tray on the toilet. Once this is happening regularly, take the litter box away.

The next step is to gradually reduce the amount of litter that is in the tray on the toilet. Also, make a little hole in the tray. Each day, reduce the litter more and make the hole a bit bigger. Do not move to fast on this or your cat might not feel comfortable using it. Eventually, you can remove the tray all together and your cat will be toilet trained!

Since your cat needs to balance on the toilet seat eventually, it is not recommended that you train cats that are too young. Wait until your cat is about 6 months old so that he is big enough to balance on the toilet seat. One important point that should be obvious is that once your cat starts using the toilet - you MUST leave the toilet lid open at all times - the cat can't open it himself!

Be patient as this training process can take several months, but when your cat is trained you will have eliminated the smell and mess of a litter box. Now the only problem you will have is remembering to knock next time you want to use the bathroom as your cat may be using the toilet!



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Thursday, February 23, 2006

Who Takes Care of Your Pets When You're Away ?

Who Takes Care of Your Pets When You're Away?

Can your dog wait 10 hours to go for a walk? Will the cat have enough food and a clean litter box if you are away for a week? What if you can't come home Wednesday nights because of a prior commitment?

Anytime a pet owner needs to go away on vacation, stay long hours at work or has regular scheduled activities that take them away from home they must consider how their pet will be cared for. Pets provide entertainment and companionship but are also a huge responsibility. You show respect for your pet by taking its needs into consideration and planning accordingly.

Fortunately there are many services available to assist you in caring for your pet during times when you can't personally give them the attention and care they need. What are they? Which is best for your pet?

DAY CARE

Social animals, like dogs, can suffer emotionally from a lack of attention. If your dog has access to the outdoors they will be able to relieve themselves when necessary but a house-bound dog will physically require a walk or you will come home to an accident on your rug and a frustrated animal.

Day care centers provide the needed social stimulation most dogs crave. At the day care your dog will spend time with other dogs and have people looking after its physical needs. If you have a young dog this can be especially important as your dog may become destructive with a lack of supervision and an abundance of unused energy.

BOARDING KENNELS

If you plan to be away overnight or for longer your dog or cat may be placed in a boarding kennel. This can be expensive but will ensure your pet is cared for daily and overnight.

IN-HOME CARE

If you are comfortable leaving your dog at home all day you may find the in-home services of a visitor or dog walker to be sufficient and less costly while still providing personal attention.

Cats and other animals may not need daily visits if you come home in the evening but will need some attention if you are away overnight or for several days. Cats prefer their own homes rather than the highly social aspect of day cares or boarding kennels. Other pets, such as birds and reptiles, will most likely do better with in-home care as well.

In-home care can be as basic as someone taking your dog for a walk in the middle of the day or as inclusive as having a sitter stay in your home with your pet.

Examine your situation and budget when choosing a method of care. Take your pet's best interests in mind. If you are having someone come to your home be sure they are reputable. Licensed businesses should be insured and bonded when employees are trusted with entering and locking up your home.

Pet Sitters - Information on Hiring or Starting a Business

Pet Sitters - Information on Hiring or Starting a Business

Are you looking for someone to help care for your pet while you're away? Or are you interested in making your own business as a pet sitter? Here are answers to some of the common questions about pet sitters.

WHAT DOES A PET SITTER DO?

Pet sitters care for your pet just as a baby sitter cares for your children. While most pets do not demand the same amount of supervision and care that a child does every pet has a certain amount of physical requirements as well as social needs. What is necessary for your pet will depend on the personality as well as species you are looking to have cared for.

Pet sitters perform a variety of tasks. They may simply check the food and water supply of your animal. Dogs may require a walk while cats and caged animals may need their litter boxes cleaned or the papers changed.

If you have an exotic animal or bird you should look for specialized services that can adequately meet the needs of your pet.

Pet sitters allow your pet to stay in its own environment without the stress of travel or new accommodations. Pet sitters will follow the schedule your animal is use to and the diet it is accustomed to. Pet sitters also provide the one-on-one attention your pet will be missing when you're away.

WHAT DOES A PET SITTER COST?

Expect to pay at least $15-25 for a daily visit of 30 minutes - possibly more if you require the sitter to walk your dog. Usually the cost for multiple animals is only a few dollars more per animal.

If you need the sitter to stay overnight you will probably pay $50 or more. Holiday visits (during the day or overnight) will have an increased rate.

Rates will vary according to region and specialty. Some pet sitters will visit twice a day or include other tasks, such as collecting the mail, with their pet sitting services.

HOW DO I FIND A PET SITTER?

You may find a pet sitter listing in your phone book or online. You can also ask friends, groomers and veterinarians for referrals.

It is wise to only hire pet sitters who are bonded and insured since they will not only be responsible for caring for your pet but must be trusted in your home and with your belongings. Even when trust is not an issue the sitter will be responsible for being respectful of your home and properly securing your home when leaving.

WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO TO BECOME A PET SITTER?

Depending on where you live you may have to have a business license to operate a pet sitting business. It is also important to acquire bonding and insurance, not only for the possibility of negligence but to assure customers of your professionalism.

While you do not need experience to start your own business you will need to research businesses in the area and talk to groomers, vets and others about the market. It is important to be organized and take your business seriously - others are depending on you. Use contracts to establish the tasks and costs agreed to and keep paperwork and schedules organized.

Pet sitting can be a rewarding job but can also be tiring. You will often work during inclement weather and on holidays. Plan ahead so you do not over schedule. Enjoy your work and the animals you come to know!

Dog Ear Infections

Dog Ear Infections

Dog ear infections are also commonly called Otitis Externa. It is an infection of the outer ear canal. There are three parts to the ear; the outer, the middle, and the inner ear. Ninety percent of infections occur in the outer ear, the part of the ear that you can see.

Dogs are prone to ear infections because of the anatomy of their ears. They have a horizontal and a vertical component to them, so it is hard for anything in there to drain out, like water or debris.

Signs of an ear infection include excessive head shaking, yellow to brown exudate in the ears, or a yeast like smell. Additional signs of ear infections include redness and swelling.

There are several causes of ear infections. The most common cause of ear infections are due to allergies. Some dogs are more prone to allergies than others; therefore they get more ear infections.

Another common cause is sporting dogs that swim. They get water inside their ears, and provided their difficult anatomy, the water in the ears cannot drain out. Therefore, this provides the perfect environment for bacteria and yeast to grow. It is recommenced that if you let your dog play in the water you dry your dog's ears thoroughly afterwards.

If your dog does have an ear infection it is important to properly clean your dog's ears before applying any medication.

To clean your dog's ears, start by placing a few drops of an ear cleanser into the ear and massage the ear to help loosen any debris that is in the ear. Then use a cloth or cotton gauze to whip the dirt out.

After your dog's ears are thoroughly clean, then you can apply your medication. Follow your veterinarian's advice about how much medication to apply to the ear, usually a few drops.

The treatment your veterinarian will prescribe will vary depending on the cause of the ear infection. For yeast infections they prescribe anti-fungals, for bacterial infections they will prescribe antibiotics. Normally treatment is applied directly into the ears, but in severe cases systemic treatment may be needed. This usually means have to give your dog pills orally.

In some dogs with severe ear problems, the veterinarian will usually clip the hair around the ear to help let more air into the ear. In extreme cases your veterinarian may recommend surgery to reconstruct the ear canal to let it drain easier.

Breeds of dogs that are prone to ear infections include all breeds with large ears that flap over the ear canal, and breeds of dogs that have a very small canal. By knowing what to look for, you can detect ear infections early.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Four Things to Consider Before Buying a Chihuahua

Four Things to Consider Before Buying a Chihuahua

When considering whether or not to buy a Chihuahua, whether it be for a pet or for showing, there are at least four considerations.

Hype - Don't be drawn to the Chihuahua simply because they are so small. You may have heard of phrases like: teacup Chihuahua, pocket Chihuahua and miniature Chihuahua, amongst many others. These phrases are sometimes used by breeders and pet shops as a marketing play; to make more sales. These phrases do not apply to Chihuahuas; they do not exist in the breed standard. Implying that a Chihuahua pup is a teacup Chihuahua is simply a device to entice the customer into purchasing the pup with the hope of getting a very small Chihuahua.

Fragility - Chihuahuas are not usually suited to small children. They can actually be killed or badly injured if they are stood on or dropped, or even crushed in a well-meaning cuddle. Being such a small dog, the Chihuahua needs constant supervision, and should always be kept on a lead when taken outdoors.

Behaviour - It's not often that you will come across an overly docile Chihuahua. Most are loud and dominant, trying to run the entire household, your other pets included. It's not unheard of for a Chihuahua to boss around a Boxer or even a Rottweiler, without any concern for their own safety. What they lack in size, they make up for in spirit. You need to be firm with some consistent training to help gain the upper hand. This is also necessary if the Chihuahua has developed the bad habit of what is sometimes called 'yapping'. They tend to bark at almost anything that moves or frightens them, and can sometimes become quite aggressive towards strangers. This behaviour could lead to biting and needs to be controlled.

Housebreaking - Of all the dog breeds, the Chihuahua would have to be one of the hardest to train. This is especially the case if the Chihuahua suffers from extreme shyness. Raising your voice and/or losing your temper will not help the matter as sometimes the deed is done on the carpet before they even get to the litter tray. Patience and easy access to facilities are the only avenues, and even then this task may never be accomplished.

Though there are a few downsides to owning a Chihuahua, there are many more upsides, like: a friend for life (can live well into their teens); a great travelling companion (travels light); loves to snuggle (with no expectations); doesn't need much exercise or space and will gladly give its life for you. What more could you ask for?

Taming Shy Kittens

Taming Shy Kittens

Sometimes when you get a new kitten, they are shy or they shy away from human touch. Sometimes they want to hide in a secluded spot away from you. This behavior is not uncommon and should be dealt with to bring the kitten's behavior to be more interactive with humans. Here are some things you can do.

1. Put kittens in a small room with areas for them to hide blocked off or absent. They should be in the room by themselves with no other pets. Start them off in a cage with enough room for them to run around a bit. Put a box in the cage to allow them to go into if they need to a little security. The cage can be partly covered with a blanket or towel to help them feel safer. Using a pheromone spray like Feliway at one spray per day will help too - just do not spray it around the litter box.

2. Do not stare at the kittens. Staring is predatory behavior and will scare the kittens. When you look at them, make sure you blink a lot and turn your head often. Practice trying to touch the kitten after he has been in the cage a couple of days. If they are not receptive to your hand right away, try using something like a back scratcher to rub their fur. Attempt to move your hand down the back scratcher to get closer to the kitten as you try this. An advanced method called the Tellington Touch can be attempted also. This method is proven to help an animal feel more comfortable around humans.

3. Start spending more and more time in the room with the kittens. A kitten needs at least two hours per day of interaction time with you. One person should do this at first, probably for the first 5-7 days you have had the kitten. Then one or more other people can be added to help the kitten get used to being around more people. Use a toy in your hand to play with the kitten and get him used to being close to your hand. Move your hand closer to the kitten when you hold the toy until you can touch him. Giving the kitten a special food treat also helps them get used to you being close to them.

4. Play a radio softly on a station with only voices for a few hours a day to help them get used to people's voices.

5. After you can touch the kitten, start letting them out of the cage. You may take the litter box out of the cage now and put the litter box and food at opposite sides of the room. Spray the Feliway around the room now. Do not spray it near the litter box. Start playing with them by using toys they like such as newspaper balls and string toys. This play time will turn into them looking forward to your return to play more with them. Do not forget to touch occasionally and pet them during play time.

6. After a time, just sit in the room with the kittens and do what you want to - like read, watch TV or use your computer. This will help them get used to people that are not there just to pay attention to them. Then after a while, start to play with them. Try to bring in other people in the room with them more often and for at least 30 minutes at a time. The other people should try to play with the kittens and also try to pet them.

All these things will help a shy kitten come out of his shell. If you have a shy kitten and do nothing the kitten may hide all the time. Help them get used to humans and human interaction. Some will need this help more than others.

Help Prevent Cat Hairballs

Help Prevent Cat Hairballs

Cats are fastidious animals. They like things clean and apparently one thing they like clean the most is themselves. Therefore they spend an excess amount of time just grooming. The act of licking themselves helps to untangle and remove loose hair. Their tongues are specifically made for the task. They are covered with little bumps and toward the center of the tongue is tiny barb-like bumps that act to snag the hair. Unfortunately, this habit of grooming can lead to the formation of hairballs.

Cats are unable to digest the hair they swallow. However, they are able to have the hair pass through the digestive system in small amounts. A problem is caused if the cat is most likely low on fiber, which renders it incapable of passing the hair. The hair builds up and forms a hairball. The hairball can develop either in the stomach or toward the back of the throat.

The distressed cat begins to cough and attempts to throw-up the hairball. For the loving cat owner, the gagging and retching is worrisome not to mention the annoying cleanup afterwards. While the occasional hairball is probably nothing to be too alarmed about, frequent hairballs could be a cause for concern. Constant hairballs can result in digestive track troubles such as loss of appetite and constipation.

You cannot eliminate your cat from swallowing all its loose hair. However, there are actions you can take and natural remedies along with commercial products that you can use. The best way is combing or brushing your cat to prevent swallowing as much hair as possible in the first place. Longhaired cats should be combed or brushed daily and shorthairs probably only require it once or twice a week.

If your cat needs more assistance with its hairballs, there are commercial products that can be applied to the top of its front paws. The cat will attempt to lick these off; which will aid in the hair passing through the digestive system. People have used other similar lubricants such as Crisco All Vegetable Shortening, mayonnaise or butter as a substitute to these store bought products. Yet be careful, because the use of these can cause other digestive problems. Then again, some people have used Vaseline though this also should be applied only occasionally. It is recommended that you check with your veterinarian on the use, frequency and amount of any of these products before administering them to your cat.

You may also feed your cat specially made cat food diets and treats that are intended to prevent the development of hairballs. Another interesting solution is to mix in about a teaspoon of canned pumpkin to your cat's normal food. One more method used as a preventive is to feed your cat grass a couple of times a week. You can grow the grass indoors. Rye, wheat or oat grasses are the best types to use and can be purchased at pet stores or on the Internet. Do not feed your cat grass from a chemically treated lawn.

Still, it must be noted that cats will throw-up for various reasons. Some of these may be from serious underlying conditions. Therefore before attempting any of these remedies, it is advised that you consult with your veterinarian to rule out any other illness and to see which, if any of these solutions should be tried. Along with your vet's help and one or more of these suggestions, it is possible that your cat will be able to live virtually hairball free.

Published by : Brur